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Finback 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Justin Talbot and Reuben Lewis, 2010
Page Views: 91
Submitted By: Justin Talbot on Jul 3, 2014

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Peter Kernan and Jack Fields on the second pitch o...

Description 

Ten draws are needed for this fun, bolt protected route that can be broken into three short pitches. There are good coffee table-sized belay ledges.

P1. .10b, 70'. This is nice climbing out an arch to a corner.

P2. .10d, 90'. This is pumpy climbing on good edges.

P3. .10b, 60'. Climb left onto the face at the last bolt (.10b) or balance straight up the corner (.11b).

Rap the route with one 60m rope.

Protection 

Bolts.


Photos of Finback Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jack Fields on Finback.
Jack Fields on Finback.

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By Dougald MacDonald
Jul 5, 2015
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Quite the adventure for three sport pitches. We both thought the first pitch might be 5.11: unless we both missed several big holds, there's no way it's 10b. It's possible to skirt the crux of the second pitch by following the last two bolts of the variation to the right, but this is still 5.10, and it's probably much better to climb straight up. Climbing straight up the final corner on the third pitch until a hard step left above the final bolt seems like the only obvious way to go and felt like 5.11 to us.

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