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Finally Home 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Uli Weidner
Page Views: 60
Submitted By: Todd H on Nov 28, 2016

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"Finally Home" Brian Ways photo

Description 

Big and complex wandering line with great moves and rock. The main crux is very long and involves passing left underneath the arching roof and then angling back right above it. After that you follow a tufa straight up and mantel it to gain a no-hands rest preceding the technical crux: a short rightward traverse using terrible handholds. Finish that and you still have some fairly difficult moves to reach the upper roof and skirt around the right side of it. A harder variation tackles the upper roof directly.

Location 

Right of Mr. Keo

Protection 

Bolts. Long draws are recommended at the first roof to help with rope drag later on. Also there's an extremely difficult clip toward the end of the main crux but it's safe to skip.


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