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Crescent Crack Buttress
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Final Link 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Brian and Jonathan Smoot
Page Views: 7,307
Submitted By: Louis Arevalo on Aug 26, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (114)
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Slab supreme

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Stem up through the spike from the Crescent Crack Direct variation and clip first bolt. The crux here is to not pull on the draw and do the cool mantle onto the slab. Clip next bolt then set up belay at the two bolts. Beautiful slab that wanders a bit left and right. runners could be helpful on a few of the bolts to reduce rope drag. If done as the finish to Crescent Crack this route has it all.


This is a stellar variation of the Crescent Crack route. Standard wasatch rack with 6 draws for this final slab.

Photos of Final Link Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Thomas on final link. Beautiful pitch!
Thomas on final link. Beautiful pitch!
Rock Climbing Photo: Stereotypical picture of Final Link.
Stereotypical picture of Final Link.
Rock Climbing Photo: Beautiful views of the canyon!
Beautiful views of the canyon!
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the top of Final Link
Looking down from the top of Final Link
Rock Climbing Photo: Laurie D. Midway up Final Link
Laurie D. Midway up Final Link

Comments on Final Link Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 16, 2015
By Nathan Fisher
Jul 17, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great line, that wanders just a bit too much to make it a classic. Climbing up through the spike is interesting, the mantle exciting, and of course, the well-protected slab supreme. Love that quartz vein!!
By steve santora
Mar 15, 2007

Who removed the belay chains from the middle of the route. It makes rapping the final link with a 60 meter rope very dangerous. A 70 meter rope just reaches the belay chains at the bottom.
By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Apr 9, 2007

That rappel station was added to an established route that was put up on lead, right in the middle of the route. Did kind of ruin the aesthetic of the route a tad. Needed to go. If you only have a single rope, then rappel from the tree at the top to the base of the Coffin and walk down from there.
By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Apr 9, 2007

The Final Link takes off from the Direct Finish to Crescent Crack by going up to a bolt, then a weird (kinda hard!) move, then left to the bolted anchor on the bottom of the final face. So you go up through the spike just like the Direct variation but instead of following the main crack to the right, go up. One bolt protects the move to the fixed anchor.

Crescent Crack drops down the ramp then off (past the squeeze crux, then up the crack until the easy ramp appears). You can set a belay either prior to that ramp, then lead the next pitch to the fixed anchor on the final face, or, climb up past the ramp and set an anchor, or, drop down the ramp and set an anchor. Any of those options kinda work.

Final Link is super and a great way to top out the buttress.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 24, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Classic. If you're going to climb crescent crack you have to finish on this route, it makes no sense to skip the best part of the buttress and traverse on the manky ramp.
Getting to the start of the route by climbing the direct finish to crescent is tons of fun and the slab is reminiscent of a well protected S-direct. I don't think that the "wandering" takes anything away from it, clip very bolt with a long runner and the rope drag remains minimal.
If you do it after work it's worth chilling on the ledge for a while and watch the alpenglow on the south side while the city slowly lights up.
Rap in the tree infested gully to the east and do a night ascent of the coffin for the perfect linkup!
By Aimee Bates
Jun 20, 2009

Very frictiony! 5.9 felt a little soft for LCC standards. : )
By Rob Duncan
From: Salt Lake City
Mar 12, 2011

just did this, so good!

thanks smoots! another classic LCC line
By Courtney Pace
From: Sandy
Mar 4, 2012

If you can negotiate the finger crack and smearing of the feet directly above the ramp, then pull the mantel sans A0 then the slab won't feel very hard. The crux is right off the belay getting to the first bolt. After that it eases up a bit and you can get your slab groove on.
By tanner jones
Jun 13, 2012

a 70 meter rope from the top does NOT reach the belay chains. instead, rap down to the base of the coffin and walk back (after you send the coffin, of course).
By Jim D
Nov 1, 2013

There are two bolts that take off left off Crescent Crack just above the chimney. The line seems like it would end up on Final Link eventually. Anyone know what that route is, what's it's rated, and whether it has actually been finished? I could only see two bolts from Crescent Crack and I would imagine there would be more as I didn't see any gear above that....
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Nov 2, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

That's probably Genuine Risk, 5.11c R
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 1, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The mantel is kind of awkward and detracts from the absolutely immaculate slab above. Some of the best slabbing action in Little.
By Ryan Arnold
Mar 16, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

I loved the mantel! Alley-oop on up there! Fabulous 5.9 slab, you actually get to practice pure smearing. "Well protected" on LCC slab means 10-12 foot runouts.

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