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El Lado O scuro de la Luna S 
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Filo Suroeste 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 750', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 392
Submitted By: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra on Jan 8, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Peña Bernal as seen from the town of Bernal. Pho...

Description 

One of the classic routes at the monolith. Usually less busy than Bernalina or Lado Oscuro.

P1) Follow the bolts straight up a clean face with tiny holds, continue up for a long pitch till you reach a second set of anchors in an alcove (5.9, 50m).

P2) Exit the alcove slightly right and up a short bulge, crank the crux and continue up moderate terrain to another set of anchors (5.10b, 40m).

P3) Head straight up a short wall then scramble up a huge vegetated ledge system till you find another short wall with a couple of bolts in it. Find the anchors at the top of it (hanging belay) or if you have a 60m rope, stretch it out a few more meters to reach a second set of anchors in almost flat terrain (5.7, 55-60m).

P4) Walk along the big platform and heading towards the final headwall to the summit, follow the trail to its base. Belay from there (Class 2, 25m).

P5) Climb the final headwall following the only line of bolts visible, the anchors will be very close to the summit (5.8, 50m).

From the last anchors an easy 10m scramble will get you to the summit (Class 3). Enjoy the view!

DESCENT: Follow the summit trail past the altars/cruxes and scramble down a little ways on the Southeast side of the cliff, you'll find a rap anchor at the top of Las Grapas via ferrata. Two 25m rappels get you to a ledge from where you can scramble down to the tourist trail and back to town.

Location 

It's the leftmost ridge on the South face of the cliff. Hike up the regular tourist trail until you're close some slabs on the lower part of the wall. Scramble up the slabs trending left till you get find a notch dividing the South face from the West face. The route starts there.

Protection 

15-16 quickdraws.


Photos of Filo Suroeste Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Aline Ortega finishing the second pitch of Filo Su...
Aline Ortega finishing the second pitch of Filo Su...
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Filo Suroeste at Peña Bernal.  Photo by ...
BETA PHOTO: Start of Filo Suroeste at Peña Bernal. Photo by ...

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