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Film Noir 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Chris Beh
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,817
Submitted By: Chris Beh on Jun 27, 2011

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A view from the Fern Canyon trail. Film Noir climb...

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  • Description 

    Film Noir climbs the obvious black streak to the right of Just Another Boy's Climb. The pitch starts with 6 bolts of slab climbing to reach the overhanging head wall which is climbed to the top with 7 more bolts.

    Start just to the right of Just Another Boy's Climb and climb a slab past 6 bolts. The first bulge is about 10a and the bulge at bolts 5 and 6 is 10c/d.

    Confront the crux reach move at the 7th bolt. You can clip it and step back down to a hands off rest. After the crux another bolt and a section of solid 11 moves leads to a decent shake below the second crux, a super fun, 11c/d bulge. Positive but pumpy moves climb past 2 final bolts to the anchor.

    The bouldery crux of this route is right at the start of the steep rock, and it is one of the most unique reach problems you will ever encounter. I'm 6'1" with a bit of ape index. I can do the crux almost statically, reaching the crucial left hold with my feet still on the slab. For me, it feels like about V4 or 12c'ish. If you have less reach, this move will be a lot harder, it becomes a jump move at a certain point. However, one can easily aid through the crux just by yarding on a quickdraw. Even if you hate the reach move, it is worth doing the route as 11d/12a A0, 'cause there is a lot of fun climbing on this rig.

    I have to add a big shout out to all the friends who helped me with this project. So thanks Owen Silver, Fred Knapp, Matt Samet, Paul Glover, Joe Collins, Michael Dorsey, Andy Seymour, Ned Harris and Arleigh I really appreciate your help and patience while I thrashed this thing out.


    Film Noir is located on the lower left side of the NW face of The Slab. It is the route starting just to the right of Just Another Boys Climb. Nasty Boys climbs into the top half of this route.


    13 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

    Photos of Film Noir Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up Film Noir, the upper wall overhangs abo...
    Looking up Film Noir, the upper wall overhangs abo...

    Comments on Film Noir Add Comment
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    By Chris. T.
    May 18, 2012

    An instant classic! A great redpoint crux up high, and little chance for a rest after the slab, makes for a challenging and continuous journey. The route gets better with each passing bolt. Long runners on bolts 4 and 7 will help with rope drag.
    By Jack Sparrow
    From: denver, co
    Jun 26, 2013
    rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

    Amazing route and one of the best I've done in a long time. The climb is super well protected, exposed and pumpy. The crux is definitley a height-dependent move. I sent through both cruxes my second try and fell off on the 11 move after both cruxes. It's a very pumpy route on redpoint. Highly recommended, I think it is significantly better than The Shaft as well.
    By SteveZ
    From: Denver, CO
    Oct 27, 2013
    rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

    I had avoided this route for a while due to its height-dependent crux. I wish I hadn't though as it is excellent. Maybe the best stone on the wall even? Whatever the case, I'm not quite 5'10 (even index) and thought the crux was reasonable. Go get it, shorties!
    By Andy Hansen
    From: Longmont, Colorado
    Jul 12, 2016
    rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

    Thought this was a great route on really good rock. I onsighted through the crux and then flamed out in the upper 5.11+ bit reaching the anchors. There is some sustained climbing after the crux that is not to be underestimated! Also, the bolting is a bit funky (bolts 8 & 9 could both have been placed 2' lower respectively), so having a long draw on the 8th bolt for your redpoint go would be nice. Otherwise, a fantastic route up a great swath of gently overhanging rock.
    By Mark E Dixon
    From: Sprezzatura, Someday
    Sep 7, 2016

    I'm 5'6" (+1 ape.) There is no way I'm ever going to get the crux reach. However, pulling on the 8th bolt turns this into a nice 12a/A0 route. Not anywhere near as nice as the Shaft but still good and worth doing.
    By Nolan Robertson
    Apr 23, 2017
    rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

    I don't understand the hype on this climb. A trivial slab leads to a strange crux followed by fun 5.11 power endurance. Undertow is better and only a little easier than this.
    By michalm
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 16, 2017

    In contrast to the previous poster, I think this is a fantastic route. All of the climbing flows really well, and there is no real rest after pulling onto the headwall. This means that you could fall just about anywhere on the upper section of the route due to the building pump. I appreciate the built-in, gentle warm-up slab as I don't need to climb another route for a warm-up. The friction of the rock is really nice, and after the first bolt or two, the rock quality is superb. The route doesn't get climbed nearly as much as Undertow, which means it isn't chalked to shit. Finally, the movement is very aesthetic and satisfying, unlike some of the neighboring routes with awkward, thrutchy cruxes.
    From: Nederland, CO
    Sep 25, 2017

    Nice climbing, the section past the crux is amazing. The crux is very reachy, I have a +3 at 5'9", and the crux completely maxed out my reach. Worth the effort, climbs as good as it looks, especially if you have a wingspan.

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