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Trashcan Rock - East Face
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Butterfly Crack T 
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Wallaby Crack T 


YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
Page Views: 1,524
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Sep 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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BETA PHOTO: Filch. Photo by Blitzo.


A clean, very shallow offwidth leads to a thin hands crack above. This is a good place to practice heel-toe jams.


middle of the narrow south face of the rock


standard rack - the offwidth has a thin crack in the back that you can place protection in

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By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 10, 2008

This would be a good first wide crack. You could probably protect it reasonably well without big gear, and it actually requires some wide technique to climb. The finishing tight hand crack is fun too.
By Joe M
From: Beckley, wv
Jan 11, 2009
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

I thought this felt a lot easier than 5.5, but I enjoy wide, akward cracks! Although big gear looks good for the bottom section, I found small placemnts to be bomber. The upper hand crack section was also a lot of fun!
By Rodger Raubach
Nov 18, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Did this climb in 1986, and felt that it was graded fairly at 5.5 in comparison to other climbs in the area. Worth doing as either a warm up introduction to Joshua Tree rock, or for teaching beginners. Will do again next time in JTree.
By Mark P Thomas
From: Draper
Nov 28, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Second that on the thin pro. I brought fat stuff, but the OW was too wide for any of it! Instead, I used my smaller cams on a thin crack in the back.
By Chris Keefe
Mar 15, 2015
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Gotta agree with Will S - "This would be a good first wide crack."
Varied techniques, good enough gear, not too strenuous. A beginner might even have fun climbing OW!

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