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Fifth Force 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
Page Views: 2,481
Submitted By: Scott W on Jun 16, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Mike TR soloing

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>


An area classic, possibly the best or second best sport route I've ever done. Vertical climbing with hard cruxes and great rests. Very intriguing climbing!


Start on Cunning Stunt but cut right before the first pin and clip a bolt...head straight up from there.



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By Drewsky
Jul 3, 2008

If you are short, the bottom section of the route contains a rather potent crux; the two options I've taken have been:

1: Clip the 3rd bolt, then downclimb a move and step right to a left facing lieback and a lunge move from small crimps (part of the the "force-fed" variation); then head left on big holds to rejoin Fifth Force.

2: Take on the "original" tall man crux directly above the 3rd bolt. Full-on dyno if short, but a longer reach might eliminate the dyno.

Either way, an absolute classic.
By Drewsky
Dec 31, 2008

FA: Greg Collum, Greg Child, Greg Olsen.
By Douglas T
Mar 28, 2015

All bolts are SS as of 2015. Get out there and SEND IT... or fall, it doesn't matter now.
By kerwinl
Apr 22, 2015
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Thanks for putting in the new hardware!

For anyone getting on the route soon, note that the slopey rail above the 6th bolt is a little slippery from the rock dust from the bolt replacement. I gave the area above the rail and rail itself a good scrubbing, but it will probably take a bit more rain to clean it off all the way.
By Ol Toby
From: CA
Nov 24, 2015
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Thank you for the fresh hardware Doug.

What a great pitch. Powerful granite face climbing with intricate sequences separated by good rests. The crux definitely becomes harder the shorter you are and a rating is thus hard to give.

For some reference, Siegrist called this .13, "and hard at that!"

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