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Fiddler on the Woof 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA:  Alan Nelson & Greg Purnell, August 1999
Page Views: 4,237
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Jan 1, 2001

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Rodger Seekins.

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This route is way overhung and powerful, with fun moves. However, the disappointing use of manufactured holds on this route warrants the single star rating (although these holds are bomber). This is the second route from the right side of the overhang, and ascends the steep lip using an obvious drilled slot on the face. The rating on this was initially 12c/d, but the consesus seems to be that it is actually 12a. Consider it a gym route and it will be fun and worth the effort.


9 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos of Fiddler on the Woof Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fiddler.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sam above the crux on his send.
Sam above the crux on his send.
Rock Climbing Photo: Soak up the kneebar while you can!
Soak up the kneebar while you can!

Comments on Fiddler on the Woof Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 27, 2017
By Nate Weitzel
Aug 2, 2001

I agree that this is a fun route that would not exist sans carved holds. However, it compares with Slammer at the Wall of Justice in difficulty and also is similar to Big Dog. However the transition back to the natural holds is not 12c if you dial in the feet well. Maybe we are splitting hairs in the distinction between 12a/ 12b, and also 12b /12c. Either way, when I climbed the route, the moves didn't feel harder than 12a/b.
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 1, 2001

5.12a ?
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 18, 2002

This was another chipping discussion from long ago, I just moved it to features at

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Sep 7, 2004
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Without intending to bust open a now well worked discussion about drilling and chipping, I thought the movement through the roof was really fun. Big muscle moves on a big roof. What is done is done, so if you enjoy pulling big moves on jugs with limited approach and on good solid rock, Fiddler offers up a good option with some fun climbing.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 13, 2005

By chelsea zanichelli
From: evergreen,co
Jun 4, 2008

Holy crap, hard. Want to make it a project for the summer. Couldn't quite figure out the technique for this one. Even on top rope.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Jun 19, 2008

I didn't and won't climb this route, but I did get a look at a huge drilled hold on my way down from "Hot Dog". Very disappointing!
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Dec 19, 2008
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Good bit of fun climbing.
By Luke Childers
Sep 13, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

This was a stiff warm-up, man!!
By iancevans
Nov 28, 2009

Fun enough, but the crux is really clipping the bolt after the drilled holds. Dicking around at that bolt cost me the onsight. I skipped it on redpoint. Didn't seem harder than 12a to me.

Keep your eyes out for the no-hands kneebar rest.
By Unassigned User
Jun 22, 2010

Sure it's drilled, nothing can change that now, so I enjoyed it for what it's worth, a good workout, crux is holding the body tension to hang a couple of the draws.
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 18, 2012

Yes, I'm not going to lie, I had fun cranking on the drilled jugs! Face moves down low are super cool (2 holds look mysterious?), a no hands knee bar, and then a couple bolts of near horizontal ceiling climbing on jugs. Keeping body tension with poor feet and one challenging clip probably make this the crux for most. Still fun though....
By Mississippi James
From: Brighton by way of dirty south
Sep 15, 2014

Is it chipped? Obviously. Does that suck? Of course. Does it climb well? Hell yeah. Enjoy it for what is worth, I enjoyed it!
By Geoff U
From: Centennial, CO
Dec 31, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Quite a fun route.

BETA Alert:
For some reason, this wasn't obvious to me, so I wanted to capture this for memory. Moving off kneebar with right hand in good hold, cross left to drilled jug, right heel hook, and clip. Match hands, right foot on point and go right hand to natural flake - wrap thumb; quickly move left foot up high on nub (before moving left hand). Left hand to drilled pocket and right foot under roof - clip. Left hand to crimp, drop left foot to drilled jug, flag right; right hand to sloper, right foot to chip and shoot left hand to crack; right foot up to flake - done!
By two chains
From: Fucken Zion
Apr 17, 2017
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

FA: Alen Nelson/Greg Purnell, 1999.
While Mark Rololololololofson watched his buddies manufacture holds.

Is that better?
By Mark Rolofson
May 28, 2017
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

First ascent correction to note: I was in no way involved in the first ascent or creation of this route. It was entirely the work of Alan Nelson who bolted & manufactured this route. It was one of the few lines that Alan manufactured in over 30 years of his climbing career. His career encompassed trad, sport, big walls, & scary runout trad routes like Bachar-Yerian. He pioneered many of Clear Creek most classic sport routes. He was the driving force on route development in the canyon throughout the 1990s.

First ascent: Alan Nelson & Greg Purnell in August 1999. Check my Clear Creek Canyon Sport Climber's Guide (1999) & (2006).

I redpointed this route numerous times between 1999 & 2006. It always felt like solid 5.12. Great fun. Best done with Run Underdog, Big Dog, then Fiddler On The Woof, & then finishing with Hot Dog for a good workout.

Lastly, Two Chains is a troll, & his comments should be deleted.
By two chains
From: Fucken Zion
Jul 27, 2017
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Someone give old man Mark a hug.

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