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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Shadow Sickness T 
Castles Made of Sand S 
Chains of Love T,S 
East Face/Fiddle Head T 
Fertile Crescent. T 
Irish Spring T,S 
Leprechaun Promenade S,TR 
Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint T 
Men Only T 
Surfing Samarsa T 
Unknown Dihedral T 

Fiddlehead Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,250'
Location: 39.9659, -105.2891 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,126
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mike Sofranko on Dec 31, 1969
This Afternoon

48° | 35°

52° | 41°

64° | 42°

45° | 26°

39° | 29°

49° | 35°
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BETA PHOTO: From The Slab, 4/11/02.

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  • Description 

    Fiddle Head is on the north side of Fern Canyon, east of Pellaea and Onoclea. This rock holds a fine east face route, and a couple steeper and harder routes on its west face. Fern Canyon is heavily affected by bird closures.

    Getting There 

    From the Mesa Trail, hike into Fern Canyon and past the Goose Eggs which loom above the trail to the north. Fiddle Head is the southernmost rock in the next stratum of rock to the west, but it can be difficult to pick out because the southern end of it is broken and overgrown. To access the west face routes, continue as for Pellaea and Onoclea. To access the east face, bushwack north off the trail well before reaching the prominent Superfresh boulder, and weave through fallen logs and boulders. The East Face route begins just to the right of a prominent left facing dihedral.

    Climbing Season

    Weather station 2.3 miles from here

    11 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Fiddlehead

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Fiddlehead:
    East Face/Fiddle Head   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad   
    Irish Spring   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
    A Shadow Sickness   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Leprechaun Promenade   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   
    Castles Made of Sand   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Chains of Love   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Fiddlehead

    Featured Route For Fiddlehead
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb up high on 'A Shadow Sickness (5.10a)' o...

    A Shadow Sickness 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Colorado : Flatirons : ... : Fiddlehead
    To approach, follow the faint trail uphill, starting a bit past the huge Superfresh boulder, and head up 50 yards or so and then across the talus to the base of the big, right-facing dihedral. Castles Made of Sand is the bolted line on the smooth slab just right of this corner.The climb begins by firing up through the bouldery, overhanging crack at the base of the route (this is the same start shared by Clarence and Castles). This route is rated 5.9 in the Rossiter guide, but this ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

    Photos of Fiddlehead Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers Kat and Ryan on Lepracaun Promenade (10b)...
    Climbers Kat and Ryan on Lepracaun Promenade (10b)...

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