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Fiddle of Gold 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Steve Brown
Page Views: 559
Submitted By: Brennan Crellin on Aug 19, 2014

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Brennan Crellin about to pull the rope after a gre...

Description 

Side pull the arete that terminates the right side of the bulging face. This leads to an enormous no hands rest, although it's (VERY) early for a rest.

Follow the bolt line up and right. Pull the immediate mini-roof to a position at the flaring crack.

Climb the easier (sustained 5.10+) broken-up vertical face to a no-hands (if you can find it) rest below the intimidatingly enormous roof.

Pull hard on big moves on great jugs to the anchor.

NOTE: This route is exceptionally difficult to clean on rappel or while being lowered. You may have a partner clean this on their way up the clipped end of the rope, on top-rope. I will try to get some permanent draws donated from a manufacturer by Summer 2015.

Location 

The line that takes on the full center of the imposing roof at the top of the CONCERT HALL sub-area.

More importantly, this is an amazing climb for its grade, in a perfectly remote location to only be climbed by the lucky few who get there.

Location Beta Photo

Protection 

13 bolts, to a 2-bolt anchor with permanent sport carabiners on the chains.


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By Walter Burkhardt 1
Aug 31, 2016

Cool there are biners at the anchors. The tight ol chains were a challenge. Great route!

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