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Fickle Finger of Fate

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Fickle Finger of Fate Rock Climbing 

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Location: 44.0976, -107.29321 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 493
Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: FCJohn on Jul 24, 2011

88° | 62°

80° | 58°

77° | 59°

81° | 58°

84° | 58°

85° | 59°
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BETA PHOTO: One eyed arete takes the obvious line up between t...


If you've climbed at Circus Wall then you've wondered what's up with that amazing looking pillar of rock across the drainage. The FFF is one of the more unique areas of Ten Sleep Canyon. The climbing is very unique and unlike anything in the rest of the canyon. The holds are smooth, flat, slopey, pinchy and very reminiscent of the sandstone climbing that can be found in Red Rocks. This is a perfect morning area if you're planning on hitting Dry Wall in the afternoon or looking to avoid the crowds. A thin and fine layer of dust coats almost of the holds here so brush 'em off and get to sendin'!

Due to the secluded and unique geography of the pillar, this area gets all day shade with the exception of +/1 one hour of direct overhead sun at high noon.

Getting There 

Park at pull off #4 and approach toward dry wall. You'll skirt the far right (climbers right) of dry wall and continue up hill for another 30 minutes. Wear long pants as there are a good amount of thorny/prickly bushes. Once you can see the obvious Finger of Rock, the follow the faint trail up the far right side of the drainage, hugging the wall. Approach the finger counter clockwise around the long way!

Car to base of routes takes 45 minutes.

Climbing Season

For the Ten Sleep Canyon area.

Weather station 6.9 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Fickle Finger of Fate

Pacha Mama 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Fickle Finger of Fate
The longest and most direct line up the Fickle Finger. This route can and SHOULD be done as a single monster pitch with a 60M. Although if broken up the first pitch goes at 10c and the second at 11a. Super fun pocket pulling to a slab & dihedral that is very reminiscent of black velvet canyon in Red Rocks. While a bit dusty, this route is a classic and should not be missed....[more]   Browse More Classics in Wyoming

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