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YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tom Souders, Dave Veldhaus, 1989
Page Views: 2,312
Submitted By: Chad Wagner on Apr 13, 2009

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Climb easy ground to the roof and get as high as you can to get some gear in the roof. Step back down and right to a slab and climb straight up to a heady move and step left back into the crack. Throw in some gear and enjoy the finger and hand crack up to a small ledge. Get it back and finger lock up the last portion to the bolted anchor.

The direct version which is straight up the roof goes at 11d


Climbers right of the approach along the wall 5 minutes. The obvious splitter finger crack all the way up the face.


finger and a few hand pieces and a grey metolius or black alien for the roof

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By Dustin Stephens
Feb 20, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The direct version is better protected, better climbing, and not much harder.
By nickehman
From: Fresno, CA
May 24, 2012

dirrect was challenging. the normal was desperate.
By Chad Wagner
Sep 11, 2014

Ditto on the direct but cant relate to the scary original(backed down from fear of dying, your gon die) be sure to bring the ultra small gear for direct, and sport mentality.
By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
May 20, 2017
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I did the regular version. Tricky slab crux, but it isn't too bad once you figure it out. While it definitely gets your attention, the gear is good and the fall is clean (yes, I fell). I was able to get a bomber green alien and a green C3 right under the roof before the crux. Clip them with longer draws and you're good to go.

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