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YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Petro/Gnade
Page Views: 1,553
Submitted By: david goldstein on May 10, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


The bottom half is a less than vertical corner (~5.9) crack with rests crack that widens from 3 Friends to 4 Friends. The upper half of the pitch overhangs and is more consistent in size, 3.5 Friends or blue Camalots.

A pretty great line, but docked a star because I decided midway through the crux upper section that I really don't like fist jamming.


On the far right side of Fin, about 50 meters past Virgin Voyage. Like most corners on Fin, this faces right; it goes into the shade around noon in the spring.


The first 30' feet or so is pretty easy and can be protected w/ 3 Friends or gold Camalots. After that it's a question of how many 3.5 F / Blue C you need/want to protect 100', 50' or so of which are continuously overhanging; I believe I had seven but I also had one #4 Friend and three #3.5 Camalots. I would have preferred to have more of the 3F / Blue C sizes. I'm usually good at walking larger pieces but it found doing so difficult on the overhanging section of this climb.

The anchor is not so great: one modern bolt w/ some slings through it and a vintage Hong bolt with a cheesy home made hanger and a single sling girth hitched through the sharp-edged eye.

Our 70M rope was just barely long enough to rap with about 5' of down climbing.

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By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 21, 2008

SICK ROUTE. That roof is so damn hard. Blue camalot up to rattly fists through 50 feet of overhang. Strenuous to say the least.
By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Jun 22, 2013

Petro/Gnade F.A.
By Brandon Gottung
From: Moab, UT
Oct 14, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Then what is the SH bolt about? Probably a Hong route.
By Princess Mia
From: Vail
Nov 3, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

What a super-fun line. Went back for another jog last weekend. For me it starts with big hands, goes to super raptly hands (thank goodness the start is easy) then the meat of the climb is glorious fists for me. Mostly big BD #3 but a couple of BD #3.5 works too. I don't think the new BD #4 fits……

A 70 meter rope doesn't work unless you use many tricks…….. we were way too short but had a tag line along so no problem.
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Apr 14, 2016

DA DAMN! this is fun! Think IncredibleHC but wide 3's

Replaced with chains this week. could us a new bolt eventually, but the HONG (not petro) bolt is still good for now.

placed 1 #2gold
1 #3 friend
6 # 3 camolot
1 #3.5 camolot (Barley fit, found a taper) Didn't take a new 4. Would NOT have fit

4 friends are PERFECT!

Our Sterling 70m reached with 2 person stretch..Used a cord-olette to retrieve

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