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YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Kaspar & Ruth & Michi Ochsner, 2003
Page Views: 313
Submitted By: Top Rope Hero on Oct 22, 2011

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Sean gripping tightly to delusions of grandeur. (H...


Ever wondered what it must have been like to paint the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel? Now you can find out by channeling your inner Michelangelo and giving "Feuerdorn" a go.

Take the surprisingly stiff, vert wall until you bonk your head. That's your cue to grow Velcro hands and prove to everyone that you really HAVE been working on that toe hooking. A graceless and frankly immodest groin clamp on the tufa chandelier might help facilitate clipping; but it's not going to do much for your social life.

Fair warning: The roof clips are not close. And cleaning on lead or on toprope, either, will test your threshold for imploding with frustration and hating everything.

Oh. And it's a complete sandbag for a "7a." Every move will feel like a heavy gravity day. Even belayers get worked on this one. Have fun!


First climb on the left in the cave proper. If you would drown were god to pee on Galatiani, you're not far enough back into the cave. Keep moving up.


10-ish bolts to a 2-bolt/1-'biner anchor. A set of Nomics and some Petzl Darts would be nice.

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