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Feudal Wall

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Feudal Wall (Left Side) 
Feudal Wall (Right Side) 

Feudal Wall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 3,100'
Location: 34.09311, -116.15364 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,966
Administrators: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brian Reynolds on Jun 23, 2002
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Climber on the relatively steep start of "Pet...

Description 

The Feudal Wall is one of the larger formations in Indian Cove that offers a number of lengthy, quality moderates (mostly cracks) as well as quick and easy access. The wall is split at mid-height by a large ledge system allowing for topropes to be easily set on the lower half, as well as providing a convenient way down which makes the area quite popular with large crowds of topropers. Many climbs continue to the top of the formation but most suffer from some degree of loose and/or grainy rock (exceptions do exist).

Moving from the climbers left to right, some fun climbs include the three Duchess climbs (Duchess Left, 5.4; Duchess, 5.6; and Duchess Right, 5.7) -- especially the right, which is a classic 5.7 off-width. The Castrum (5.10a) is a classic thin crack/tips layback. The start of Crown Jewels is (in my opinion) a bit of a sandbag at 5.7, but this is one of the climbs that remains fun all the way to the top. Over at the right end of the formation, The Mikado (5.6) is a fun route, and don't miss the chance to hang a top-rope and take a shot at the California Crack (5.11a). One notable climb on the upper level, near the left-hand side of the formation is La Reina (5.9) a beautiful right-facing dihedral with a splitter handcrack in the back.

Finally, the Feudal Wall offers an afternoon's worth of fourth and easy fifth scrambling/free-soloing which is excellent for keeping the pulse rate up or keeping the friends occupied while you get some more climbing in.

Getting There 

The Feudal Wall is the next to last wall you pass (it's just before the Short Wall) as you follow the Indian Cove Road to the southeast through the family campsites and out towards Rattlesnake Canyon. Parking is available right at the base of the rock, so the approach is minimal, at the most.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.2 miles from here

40 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',18],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',10],['5.7',6],['5.8',3],['5.9',2],['5.10',14],['5.11',4],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Feudal Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Feudal Wall:
La Reina   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   Feudal Wall (Left Side)
Crown Jewels   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   Feudal Wall (Left Side)
The Castrum   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Feudal Wall (Left Side)
Noriega Does Panama   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Feudal Wall (Right Side)
Duchess Pitch 2 Variation   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   Feudal Wall (Left Side)
Pet or Meat   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Feudal Wall (Right Side)
California Crack   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad   Feudal Wall (Right Side)
Panther Crack   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Feudal Wall (Right Side)
Monaco   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Feudal Wall (Left Side)
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Feudal Wall

Featured Route For Feudal Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Lluis Penalver-Aguila at the crux. Photo by Scott ...

Crown Jewels 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  California : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Feudal Wall (Left Side)
Fun, two pitch climb. Third class scramble to the right of The Castrum to reach the base. Climb straight up past the obvious bolt. The moves above the bolt are greasy and harder than the 5.7 given in guidebooks, although they can be easily avoided with a 5.6 chute 10-20 feet to the right. Above that, the climbing eases up a bit, but is consistently fun. Most parties set a belay on the intermediate ledge to relieve rope drag. Run out the second pitch on fun 5.5-5.6 terrain. Popular....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Feudal Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown route at Feudal Wall. Photo by Blitzo.
Unknown route at Feudal Wall. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Short Wall and Feudal Wall.
BETA PHOTO: Short Wall and Feudal Wall.

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