Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Ed Palen & "Buffalo Bob" Starinsky
Page Views: 766 total · 8/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jun 23, 2016
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


5 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Ed Palen pointed me to this climb in 2002 with the promise of the glory of the 2nd ascent. He'd been climbing a lot that year, and really was climbing well.

He said, in all honesty " 5.7 maybe 5.7+ "

START- Look for a spike of rock 15-20 ft right of the "laser cut" layback corner of "Buffalo Bob".

P1 - Climb up past a piton gaining the thin crack above. Climb this (remember, your Beta said "5.7" ! Ha!) headed up into a corner with a ceiling. Below the corner/ceiling step left. (Ed forgot to mention this little fact, I tried the ceiling for a while, see Variation).
Join "Reach for the Sky" to its fixed anchor.

Adirondack Rock lists a variation: Climb through the ceiling via the left crack, 5.10d

Protection Suggest change

There are quite a few fixed pitons, both Ed's and mine, but small wire nuts can augment. You want at least 2 longer slings, one for the bottom and one for the move left.

Photos

0 Comments