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Buffalo Bob T 
Festus T 
Reach For The Sky T 

Festus 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ed Palen & "Buffalo Bob" Starinsky
Page Views: 78
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Jun 23, 2016

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Description 

Ed Palen pointed me to this climb in 2002 with the promise of the glory of the 2nd ascent. He'd been climbing a lot that year, and really was climbing well.

He said, in all honesty " 5.7 maybe 5.7+ "

START- Look for a spike of rock 15-20 ft right of the "laser cut" layback corner of "Buffalo Bob".

P1 - Climb up past a piton gaining the thin crack above. Climb this (remember, your Beta said "5.7" ! Ha!) headed up into a corner with a ceiling. Below the corner/ceiling step left. (Ed forgot to mention this little fact, I tried the ceiling for a while, see Variation).
Join "Reach for the Sky" to its fixed anchor.

Adirondack Rock lists a variation: Climb through the ceiling via the left crack, 5.10d

Protection 

There are quite a few fixed pitons, both Ed's and mine, but small wire nuts can augment. You want at least 2 longer slings, one for the bottom and one for the move left.


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