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Ferrata della Mesules T 

Ferrata della Mesules 

YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c

   
Type:  Trad, 2100', Grade III
Original:  YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c [details]
FA: Done in 1912
Season: Summer and fall
Page Views: 105
Submitted By: Tim Wolfe on Jan 22, 2016

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Waterfall on the hike down.

Description 

This is the oldest Ferrata in the Dolomites – established in 1912. It is approached from the top of Sella pass and climbs up the back side of Piz Ciavazes on the NW face, then traverses north via trails across multiple summits on the western side of the Sella plateau. Eventually the path will wrap back around east, south and finally southwest along the base of the impressive Sass Pordoi west face depositing you back on the road leading up to Passo Sella. While there is some great, steep climbing (with a cable in places), this is more a great hike with stunning views in all directions. It probably takes 5-6 hours depending on how often you stop to gaze around.
The route starts a short distance to the right of the black streak/waterfall described on the approach. Follow the very thin, loose cable up the wall through chimneys (cable gone here – clip the pegs for protection if needed). It wanders up with some traverses generally following the cable up steep rock until you pop out on a large ledge system with a trail. Behind you is a great view of the Sassolungo massif. Walk left on a ledge system then up along this trail picking up another cabled section through gullies and steps on the steep face in the distance. At the end of this cable you will be on the summit of Piz Selva.

Location 

Approach: Walk on the well beaten climber/tourist path on the NW side of the pass below Sella tower 2, 3 and 4. Your destination is the obvious black streak (waterfall depending on the weather) coming down the cliff that sits beyond Torre IV. The route starts a short distance to the right of this water streak. It only takes 10-15 minutes to approach this route.
Descent: From the summit of Piz Selva you can remove your climbing gear and prepare for a long but beautiful circular hike around the entire plateau. Follow trail 649 up and down towards the north east until it begins to turn right and descend south east to Forcella Antersase (a pass with multiple trail crossings – pay attention and take the correct path here). At this point, descend right down path 647 dropping down into the Val Lasties along the huge Western face of Sass Pordoi. As you drop down you have two options – you can stay on path 647 and descend to the bar and Rifugio near Pian de Schiavaneis sport climbing area if you have friends to pick you up. Otherwise take path 656 traversing below the Piz Ciavazes south eastern side, eventually coming out at the road. Hike up the road for a few miles or try to catch a ride hitch hiking back to Passo Sella and your car.

Protection 

Helmet, gloves, Harness, Ferrata rigging


Photos of Ferrata della Mesules Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Descent down into Val Lasties. Sass Pordoi west fa...
Descent down into Val Lasties. Sass Pordoi west fa...
Rock Climbing Photo: View down the route from the summit of Piz Selva
View down the route from the summit of Piz Selva
Rock Climbing Photo: Val Lasties (the final section of descent) is visi...
Val Lasties (the final section of descent) is visi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of the first cable section. Sassolungo in the ...
Top of the first cable section. Sassolungo in the ...

Comments on Ferrata della Mesules Add Comment
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By kenr
Sep 18, 2017

also called the Possnecker path or Pössnecker klettersteig.

other English-language descriptions + reports:
. . . also in the new print guidebook for the Dolomites from rockfax.com

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