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Ferrata degli Alpini 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1000', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b [details]
FA: Italian Military 2007
Page Views: 80
Submitted By: Tim Wolfe on Dec 3, 2015

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The Ferrata is not particularly steep, making a go...


This relatively new Ferrata has a feature that makes it “safer” consisting of reinforced bolts and rubber cones on the difficult sections that cushion any accidental falls. It is fairly easy – considered medium difficulty. It ascends the south face of Col Die Bois a few hundred meters to the left of the classic South Arete “Alvera” mountaineering route mentioned on this web site. The start of the route is the most difficult portion of the ascent, with the cable heading basically up the arête on the left side of the south face all the way to the summit. Follow this to the summit over moderate terrain.


Location/Approach: From Cortina d’Ampezzo drive towards Passo Falzarego on the SS48 road. Park at “Da Strobel” restaurant (on the right side as you are going uphill, about 1.5 km below the pass). Walk out the NE end of the parking lot following signs towards Col dei Bos. Once you intersect the military road on the hillside, head east toward the mountain then up a traversing path through meadows towards the left hand side of the south face (you can see the cables are you get closer).
Descent: Follow the obvious track left (west) through meadows then scree and past some WWI remains to a path than drops down into the valley between Col dei Bos and Torri del Falzarego peaks. The path drops quickly (1 hour or so) down to the route base and then you can trace your approach back to the car. An alternate descent if you wish to go over by Tofana massif would be to go right towards Tofana dropping over the east side of Col dei Bos, then down any number of paths back to the military road and then turn right, walk along the road through a tunnel and eventually back to the parking area. For an even better hike, head left (west) as in option 1 but hike all the way up to the summit of Torri del Falzarego to the Rifugio at the top of the cable car. From here descend down just to the east of the refugio, directly under the cable car and pick up the Gallerie di Lagazuoi tunnel. This is a steep cabled tunnel/Ferrata (excavated during the first world war) through the entire mountain for 1 km or more that descends steeply through the mountain and has many interesting WWI artifacts (see description of this ferrata for more information). You will need a headlamp if you choose to do this descent. Once you exit the tunnels, work your way down to the dirt military road and head left back towards the bar and your car.


Standard Ferrata rigging, helmet, gloves.

Photos of Ferrata degli Alpini Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Optional descent through Galleria Piccola di Falza...
Optional descent through Galleria Piccola di Falza...
Rock Climbing Photo: Traversing the ridge on the route
Traversing the ridge on the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the summit, Military dirt road approach below
Near the summit, Military dirt road approach below
Rock Climbing Photo: The descent
The descent

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