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Fern Gulley

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back to the Feature S 
Blazing Saddle Sores S 
Captain Hooks 
Chasing Shadows 
Leftovers, The S 
Never Never Will I Ever 
Spice is Right, The S 

Fern Gulley Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.87561, -93.12678 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,650
Administrators: TylerKC, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andrew Roepke on Dec 7, 2015

85° | 65°

82° | 65°

82° | 60°

72° | 53°

75° | 51°

72° | 49°
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All 4 of the bolted routes at Fern Gulley


A tucked away little gulley with a very rainforest like feel. A few mixed/trad routes were established here in 1994. This area is most famous for the Strickland/Mentin Dyno. You pass through this area to get to New Font. The wall left of the dihedral stays in the shade all day, and tends to stay damp. But the wall right of the dihedral, with the bolted routes, gets morning sun until around noon. Neverland is a small corridor underneath the massive Fern Gully boulder, a small collection of boulder problems.

Getting There 

Just west of Fountain Red is a faint logging road heading north-west, follow this to the road closed sign and park. Follow the closed logging road for a little while and look for a cairn to the left, marking the faint trail up to Fern Gulley. An alternate approach is to follow the invasion cliff line climber's right, passing the land of the little people, and continuing to Fern Gulley. Or, park at the Off the Rails parking, continue following that logging road until you see a cairn to the left, then follow red trail markers until you reach the deproach.

Climbing Season

For the Cowell Area area.

Weather station 5.3 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Fern Gulley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Fern Gulley:
The Spice is Right   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   
Back to the Feature   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 65'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Fern Gulley

Featured Route For Fern Gulley
Rock Climbing Photo: Bolting "The Spice is Right"

The Spice is Right 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  Arkansas : Cowell Area : Fern Gulley
Shares the first 4 bolts with "Back to the Feature" then angles up and slightly right. After clipping the fixed fourth bolt, head straight up into a crack feature that leads to the roof. Pull the roof to gain the easier upper head wall....[more]   Browse More Classics in Arkansas

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