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Fern Creek Falls
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Fern Creek Direct 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Heller, Karr
Page Views: 630
Submitted By: Phil Schuld on Oct 13, 2013

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Description 

Despite its relatively diminutive height and lack of top anchor, this route is absolutely worth the effort! There's nothing but perfect stone and fun moves the entire way.

Start on the left side of the buttress at a seam. The seam is very shallow at the start but it can be protected with a little fiddling (gear gets better as you go). Make some unique technical moves up the seam to gain some great jugs below a slight bulge. Make a long reach out of the bulge, moving left to the arete. Follow good horizontals up the airy arete and top out on a mossy ledge with a nice-sized tree.

Location 

Just right of the Fern Creek Falls on an obvious buttress with a clean gray face. FCD begins on the left side of this face at a seam.

Protection 

Small gear up to a purple camalot. Don't miss the great nut placements

No anchor; belay tree at the ledge.


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