Fern Canyon Rock Climbing
This is an organizational entry suggested by one our users to help with clarify crag locations for those less familiar. This is a minor gully/canyon on the NE side of Bear Peak in the southern half of the Flatirons. It hosts numberous shorter 1-2 pitch climbs of a moderate to advanced level of difficulty. The approach is often 45-60 minutes, although the hike itself is a bonus for the day. Nonetheless, there are some beautiful routes in this area. The great majority of routes here are face climbs. Many routes have a southerly aspect, which permits wonderful climbing on sunny fall & winter days.
Crags accessed from this Fern Canyon Trail include: Nebel Horn Ridge, Onoclea, Pellea, East Ridge, Fiddlehead, The Goose Eggs, The Goose, Mars Block, & Seal Rock. However, for the purpose of this organization, we'll include those crags ordinarily approached from the Fern Canyon trail: Nebel Horn, East Ridge, Onoclea, Pellea, Fiddlehead, The Goose Eggs, & Mars Block.
Some fine routes here include: East Face/S Goose Egg
, 5.2 R; East Face/Pellea
, 5.5 R; Rad for Rookies
, 8; Rainbow Bridge
, 9; Fountain of Youth
, 10; A Shadow Sickness
, 10; Edgemaster
, 10; Leprechaun Promenade
, 10 R; Everpresent Lane
, 10+; Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint
, 10+; Ilga Grimpeur
, 11; Lightning Bolt Arete
, 11; the short but gorgeous Ruby Slipper
, 11; Fluorescent Gray
, 11 R; Slabmaster
, 12-, Exile
, 12-; Castles Made of Sand
, 12-; Chains of Love
, 12; & the controversial but historically significant Superfresh
The closest approach is likely from NCAR at the West end of Table Mesa at the south end of Boulder. From here, hike West to the Mesa Trail, go South on the trail down into the Bear Canyon drainage, continue up to the Fern Canyon sign. Ascend this pretty trail to various point at which you wander NW toward the route of choice.
Useful Links for Raptor Closures
Weather station 2.2 miles from here
60 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',25],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Fern Canyon
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Fern Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Fern Canyon:
Featured Route For Fern Canyon
Castles Made of Sand 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Colorado
: ... : Fiddlehead
Castles is the amazing looking flat face/arete first seen when one walks toward the lower East Ridge from the main trail...Crank up the dihedral and balance through some wild, tweaky moves to the arete and a tough third clip. Do a powerful move off the arete, back onto the face and set up for yet another tricky move past flakes to the anchor. Very fine!There are hard, yet elegant moves at and past each bolt with potential for some hairy falls! At least one good climber has been hurt on this one....[more] Browse More Classics in Colorado
The Nebel Horn from the north ridge of Bear Peak.
Since the route "Superfresh" is often re...
BETA PHOTO: When seen from the South, Fern Canyon reveals its ...