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Fern Buttress

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Fern Buttress Rock Climbing 

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Location: 38.0607, -81.0671 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 43,031
Administrators: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd on Apr 11, 2007


81° | 60°

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83° | 59°

81° | 60°
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Nevko pulling though the beautiful upper dihedral ...

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Before the Williams guidebooks, Fern Buttress was considered part of Endless Wall.

Now, with many quality routes to its credit, and clear boundaries of Fayette Station Road on one end, and Fern Creek on the other, Fern Buttress has grown to be known as a destination crag all its own.

Whether it's the super clean, awe-inspiring bolted sport lines like Welcome to Conditioning and Just Send It, or the plethora of fantastic cracks, or the off-the-beaten-path short classics, Fern Buttress can be a welcome respite to the overwhelming crowds that can sometimes be found at moderate NRG sport crags. If you're new to placing gear, enjoy aesthetic classics, or if you enjoy tiny holds on immaculate faces, you'll find yourself right at home here.

Getting There 

There are three ways to approach Fern Buttress.

First, you can park in the designated pull off on Fayette Station Road. For any of the crags from Arm Forces area to Orchard Wall, this is the best way in.

For access to the Fern Creek Falls area to Ritz Cracker area, you can park in the Fern Creek parking area off Lansing Edmond Rd. Take the Endless wall trail in heading toward Fern Creek. When you get to the Bridge, you can either cross the bridge and continue to the Fern Creek ladders (which will actually spit you out on the opposite side of Fern Creek- at the beginning of Endless Wall) or you can hang a right at the bridge, skirt the lip of the cliff on a trail, and rap in. There is usually a makeshift rappel station on the tree above the 5.8 crack route Night Moves.

Climbing Season

Weather station 5.0 miles from here

74 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',13],['3 Stars',35],['2 Stars',22],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Fern Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Fern Buttress:
F5   V10 7C+     Boulder, 10'   Fern Creek Boulders
Crack of the Klingons   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Star Trek Wall
Hysteria   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Orchard Wall
Ritz Cracker   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 90'   Ritz Cracker Area
Two Bag Face   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Workmen's Buttress
Crescenta   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Ritz Cracker Area
Anal Clenching Adventures   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 50'   Orchard Wall
Fragile Ego System   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Wild Seed Area
Springboard   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 70'   Orchard Wall
Triple Treat   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 70'   Orchard Wall
Two-Tone Arete   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Thieves Area
New Tricks for the Old Dog   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Ritz Cracker Area
Bisect   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Orchard Wall
Wild Seed   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   Wild Seed Area
Morning Dew   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Ritz Cracker Area
Fly Girls   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   Wild Seed Area
Fall Line   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Fern Creek Falls
Thieves in the Temple   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Thieves Area
Portly Gentleman's Route   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 70'   Orchard Wall
Welcome to Conditioning   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Just Send It Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Fern Buttress

Featured Route For Fern Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Working the dead point to the mail slot.

Welcome to Conditioning 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  West Virginia : The New River Gorge : ... : Just Send It Wall
Welcome to Conditioning is a prime candidate for best 12d in the New River Gorge. It features precise bouldery movement on bright orange stone. The moves, which sort of feel like magic tricks, are addictive.Approach the first bolt with a series of west virginia scramble steps and momentum driven hand movements. Getting past the first crux is height dependent and a bit intimidating. Grab a crimp and a small pocket, sag and then do a massive precision dead point to a mail slot.From the mail sl...[more]   Browse More Classics in West Virginia

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