Fern Buttress Rock Climbing
Topping out...recommend top belaying so you can en...
Before the Williams guidebooks, Fern Buttress was considered part of Endless Wall.
Now, with many quality routes to its credit, and clear boundaries of Fayette Station Road on one end, and Fern Creek on the other, Fern Buttress has grown to be known as a destination crag all its own.
Whether it's the super clean, awe-inspiring bolted sport lines like Welcome to Conditioning and Just Send It, or the plethora of fantastic cracks, or the off-the-beaten-path short classics, Fern Buttress can be a welcome respite to the overwhelming crowds that can sometimes be found at moderate NRG sport crags. If you're new to placing gear, enjoy aesthetic classics, or if you enjoy tiny holds on immaculate faces, you'll find yourself right at home here.
There are three ways to approach Fern Buttress.
First, you can park in the designated pull off on Fayette Station Road. For any of the crags from Arm Forces area to Orchard Wall, this is the best way in.
For access to the Fern Creek Falls area to Ritz Cracker area, you can park in the Fern Creek parking area off Lansing Edmond Rd. Take the Endless wall trail in heading toward Fern Creek. When you get to the Bridge, you can either cross the bridge and continue to the Fern Creek ladders (which will actually spit you out on the opposite side of Fern Creek- at the beginning of Endless Wall) or you can hang a right at the bridge, skirt the lip of the cliff on a trail, and rap in. There is usually a makeshift rappel station on the tree above the 5.8 crack route Night Moves.
Weather station 5.0 miles from here
72 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',13],['3 Stars',36],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Fern Buttress
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Fern Buttress:
Featured Route For Fern Buttress
Fall Line 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b West Virginia
: The New River Gorge
: ... : Fern Creek Falls
This climb is super fun! Steep climbing with incredibly good holds. Start by climbing straight up aiming for nothing less than jugs. After bolt 3, make a reachy move to some great holds below a pronounced overhang. Try to shake out here. Find a finger lock in the overhang, pull the overhang and clip the bolt. Make another reachy move to a shallow hold (for this climb) and move fast to more jugs (crux). From here, keep it together and trend up and right with increasingly good holds. The...[more] Browse More Classics in West Virginia