REI Community
Ferguson Canyon

Select Area...
Animation Wall 
Bob's Rocking Chair 
Cathedral, The 
Diminutive Wall 
Duomo Wall 
Gallant Wall 
Goldenfingers Wall 
Guano Wall 
Heart Wall 
Hound's Tooth 
Space Station 
Tower Of Babel 
Watchtower, The 

Ferguson Canyon Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.613, -111.786 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 104,987
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Eric Jacobsen on Mar 27, 2003

89° | 64°

87° | 63°

83° | 60°

86° | 62°

87° | 61°

88° | 62°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [3 people like this page.]
Visions of Fergy... It's not surprising this canyo...


This small canyon is just to the south of Big Cottonwood Canyon and is a great place to beat the summer heat. There are several small crags on north-facing walls under a canopy of large trees. A small stream runs by and sometimes makes it difficult to get up there without getting your feet wet. The canyon is also a popular place for picnics.

Ice Climbing 

The popular summer crag canyon actually has ice! No much of ice, but I was able to front point up about 45' in April. If you hike on the Ferguson trail, passing all the climbing buttresses, you'll see some flows on the south side of the canyon. It's as simple as that, hike till you see ice, if you don't see ice, keep hiking (unless nothing formed that year).

Getting There 

Follow directions to the mouth of Big Cottonwood Canyon. There is a 7-11 store here, at the intersection of Wasatch Blvd (Hwy 210) and Fort Union Blvd (Hwy 190, also 7200 South). From this intersection, head south on Wasatch Blvd for a quarter mile and turn left (east) into the Prospector Drive neighborhoods. Take an immediate right and head south up the hill. Take the second left onto Timberline drive and park alongside the right side of the road near the trailhead sign. A dirt road leads to a white water tower and then turns into a trail that descends into the canyon. Follow various branching trails east into the mouth of the canyon. The trail and almost all climbs are on the south side of the stream. The approach for the first climbs on the Watchtower is 15-20 minutes.

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.3 miles from here

108 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',33],['2 Stars',52],['1 Star',19],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Ferguson Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Ferguson Canyon:
The Confessional   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   The Watchtower : Watchtower Main
Inner Light   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 50'   The Watchtower : Watchtower Main
Hellfire Variation   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   The Watchtower : Watchtower Main
Imperial   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Watchtower : Watchtower Tiers
Fire and Brimstone   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   The Watchtower : Watchtower Main
Extreme Unction   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   The Watchtower : Watchtower Main
Total X   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Watchtower : Watchtower Main
Uncensored Society   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Watchtower : Watchtower Tiers
Goldenfingers   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Goldenfingers Wall
Conflict   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 90'   The Watchtower : Watchtower Tiers
Skinny Len Crimps   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   The Cathedral
Fortress   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   The Watchtower : Watchtower Main
Dehumanized   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   The Watchtower : Watchtower Tiers
Drunk Punk Oi   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   The Watchtower : Watchtower Tiers
Total Ramon   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Watchtower : Watchtower Tiers
Concrete Jungle   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   Tower Of Babel
Steel Reserve   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   The Watchtower : Watchtower Tiers
Fishlips   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 50'   The Watchtower : Watchtower Main
Fuego   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   Tower Of Babel
Condor   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Watchtower : Watchtower Tiers
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Ferguson Canyon

Featured Route For Ferguson Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the the second roof on Extreme Unction

Extreme Unction 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Watchtower Main
Fun climbing on an upside-down staircase, then an easy face. The crux is at the big roof followed by another short easy face. Very varied. To find this route, follow the first main Watchtower wall around to the right into a corner and look for the upside-down staircase between two large chimmneys....[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Ferguson Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Visions of Fergy, the hike out. Hopefully you cool...
Visions of Fergy, the hike out. Hopefully you cool...
Rock Climbing Photo: This shot was taken near the intersection at the m...
BETA PHOTO: This shot was taken near the intersection at the m...
Rock Climbing Photo: Crazy rock and thick trees
BETA PHOTO: Crazy rock and thick trees
Rock Climbing Photo: Newer area not yet on here.  Great harder granite ...
Newer area not yet on here. Great harder granite ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ferguson Canyon - couple of people sitting on that...
Ferguson Canyon - couple of people sitting on that...
Rock Climbing Photo: 40 oz?  5.10 something.  Ferguson canyon climbing ...
40 oz? 5.10 something. Ferguson canyon climbing ...

Comments on Ferguson Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 29, 2015
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 11, 2005
fun neighborhood climbing, mellow approaches, stout ratings, many toprope opportinities.
By shay
Jul 2, 2007
This is one of the funnest areas around. There are a lot of routes not mentioned here. Does anyone know anything about the climb just starting up the steep path to the right, it is about 7 maybe 8 bolts, feels like a 5.9+ or 5.10. Just hunting a name a and such.
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Mar 31, 2008
This is a popular canyon, with a long climbing history. Sadly, it is being loved to death--trash, erosion and dog shit to name a few. Get on the ass of anyone leaving trash, lighting fires, or smashing bottles!

The lack of a guidebook update in the last ten years has led to a number of "repeat FA's". If you find a route with fixed gear, it's most likely been freed before (duh). A few routes in this canyon were first done as solos, then got bolted later by others. My point is, do your homework and ask around before claiming a FA, and certainly before you bolt. And DON'T STEAL FIXED PITONS. Get a job dirtbag.
By Ben Folsom
Aug 22, 2008
This is a beautiful canyon. It is a shame that some people don't take care of it. There is a lot of trash all around. Climbers are probably not much of a problem in that regard.
I spent an hour or so the other day picking up little pieces of shattered glass from around the base of the Watchtower, and there is still a lot of glass around. A week or so ago I was up there and I saw a group of young (underage) kids hiking up. There were about ten of them. Each was carrying 4-6 bottles of Corona, no backpacks. When they came back down later, they weren't carrying anything. That means that those 40-60 bottles are still up there somewhere, probably smashed to bits. I should have confronted them about it, and I am still kicking myself for not doing so (but there were 10 of them and 1 of me). Every time I hike up the trail I pick up at least 20 cigarette butts and other odds and ends of trash. My dog comes up there with me, and I always pick up and pack out his poop. Many others do not, as there are always piles of poop all over the place.
I think it would be a good idea as a community of climbers to carry trash bags with us when we use this canyon. Lets pick up the trash of others, and ourselves and clean up this nice canyon. It may help preserve our access as a user group and it will definitely show others that we are a responsible and respectful user group.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 5, 2009
I talked to a lady who was leaving the canyon with her dog yesterday. She was carrying a ton of trash out, which made me pay close attention to what she was saying (as Ben mentionned, trash gets in this place but rarely out): apparently the city of Cottonwood Heights is contemplating closing Ferguson to dogs.

I don't know how much of this is true. She may have been ranting or she may have been the mayor of the city for all I know. Nevertheless, a bit of cleaning is certainly not gonna hurt access to the canyon... Do your part peeps!
By SpicyThaiSausage
Jul 30, 2009
Would anyone be down for a "trail works day"? Some of the landings are loose and eroded and could use repair.
By Shaft
From: Salt Lake City
Jul 30, 2009
Funny you should mention that. The SLCA is having a Ferguson Canyon Adpot-A-Crag day that is tentatively scheduled for September 26th, 2009. Projects include graffiti removal, repairing trails and building belay platforms to reduce erosion as well as the usual trash removal.

More information will be available on the SLCA website as it becomes available.
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Oct 11, 2009
ferguson is now home to probably the nicest approach trail in the wasatch!
By tenesmus
Jul 5, 2010
I read in the Cottonwood Heights Journal that the city will start enforcing a permit only parking system at the trailhead.

"The Timberline Trailhead is a popular attraction in our coummnunity, but street parking around the trail has become a problem for homeowners in the area. For that reason, the roads around the trailhead will be designated permit-only parking as of July 1.

Anyone using the trail must park in designated trailhead parking or at the gravel overflow parking area on Prospector Drive. Homeowners along Timberline Drive, Quicksilver Drive and Prospector Drive will receive five street parking permits per household to place inside family cars or the cars of visiting guests.

Any car parked on those streets without a placard risks being ticketed for a parking violation. As a remoinder, the city will be posting permit-only parking signs and a map of the overflow parking area at the trailhead."
By Adam N.
Aug 11, 2011
Oh no—I’ve lost my draws! On Sunday night I had to leave draws hanging on Concrete Jungle at the Tower of Babel. All bolts were clipped with Wild Country or Petzl draws and I had two shoulder-lengths at the anchors. Of course I’m familiar with the whole Booty Clause, but I figured this was worth a try. If you have them, you’re like the nicest guy in the town, I’d love to get them back from you. Cheers! 801-860-1976
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Aug 12, 2011
Did you check if there were still up there? I doubt the Tower sees very much traffic and your draws might still be hanging there.
By Adam N.
Aug 12, 2011
The draws were gone as of Thursday. I agree though. I had put my faith in the local climbing folk that they would a) be lazy and not hike up to the Tower—at least until I got my stuff back, and b) if they did climb there, they would agree that while a few pieces of gear is booty, a whole route equipped is a different thing altogether. No such luck.
By Adam N.
Aug 14, 2011
I got my gear back! Many thanks to the climber who returned the draws, and to you, Sir Mt. Project, for making it all happen.
By Jonas Haag
Sep 2, 2011
I forgot our rope somewhere in ferguson! I know it's stupid but it sure happened. Its a green Sterling dual-pattern rope in a green Metolius rope bag. If you've found it, I would really appreciate if you could let me know. 8015185880
Thank you
By Kevin LP
Jun 7, 2013
Found pair of climbing shoes in Ferguson. If they're yours please contact me @ 8016781137. Preferably with a description of the shoes to keep people honest.
By Dmckop
Aug 1, 2013
LOST: One La Sportiva TC Pro climbing shoe on Wednesday evening. The shoe was left near extreme unction in ferguson canyon. Please call (507) 581-0288. Thank you!
By Tyler Needham
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 3, 2013
How late in the year does it generally stay climbable?
By Super Fluke
From: Earth
Jul 29, 2015
With neighboring BCC to the north and LCC to the south, it's easy to pass up this gem. Great climbs with appreciable amount shade. My only criticism is all the dogs. The spelling should be changed to "Furguson" for all the furry friends.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About