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Feng Shui 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Eric Horst
Page Views: 681
Submitted By: Colin R on May 18, 2012

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Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>


This is a great line just around the arete to the right of Skinhead Grin. Start with steep dynamic pulling between flat blocky holds to a slight bulge/roof where you must make a huge 3 foot dyno off of some nice incut crimps to a giant hueco (probably 5.11+ to here). After this you have another pumpy 5.11a section for about another 20 feet or so wandering through some horizontal crimpy rails at which point you can shake out before heading left onto the arete. Once on the arete you have a no hands rest and need to perform about a V3/4 slab sequence (8 feet) with horrible feet to make it to the anchor. This final section is very cryptic so don't get frustrated (like I did) - just examine the possibilities. If you want specific beta for the final section I am happy to provide in the comments below.


7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

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By Kevin Umbel
Apr 30, 2017

There is no 3' dyno on this route unless maybe, you're 5' tall. And by no means is the high crux V3/4.
It is a bit cryptic, but not V3/4.
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
May 5, 2017

A three foot dyno isn't that far. The average length of a human arm is 2 feet so its just a bit more than that - maybe 2.5 feet? Its a big throw is all I remember.

The slab move at the end was the crux for me. I can only describe how it felt when I did it. The rest of the route is maybe 5.11b tops (with good rests to boo) without those two sections so I don't know why you would think its 12a without a couple of hard cruxes.

Why don't you just downgrade it man? I think that's where this conversation is headed anyways...
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
May 5, 2017

For a reference this lockoff pictured here is about 3 feet of span. Given that the average human arm is 25 inches (just over two feet) and his lower arm is locked off at 90 degrees that means one foot for his lower arm distance and two for his upper. And he is not even doing a dyno.

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