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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tom Fender, Jack Turner
Season: faces South, best Spring/Fall but can be hot in summer and warm in the wint
Page Views: 309
Submitted By: doug haller on Jun 15, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Approximate line of Fender.

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>


If all the classics on The Book/Right Book are occupied or you want an adventure, consider Fender.

Locate the start of Femp.

P1: climb and scramble up and right of Femp over two large and brush covered ledges making use of gear as needed to reach the obvious headwall, paralleling the large, left-facing corner. Tackle the headwall. Follow two flared, parallel cracks, and stem the corner, using flared hands, small chickenheads, and stemming to obtain a small ledge just after the angle declines.

P2: follow a wide crack right and then left for about 40 feet. As the crack narrows, select exit on either the right or left side of a perched block to climb upward (not left toward Femp). Continue upward toward the east shoulder of the Book via intermittent cracks, eventually climbing either a blank face or traversing right into a (different) large, left-facing corner via a hand traverse. Gain the summit/shoulder of the buttress via a couple of thin hands/finger cracks. Walk north on the ledge to find belay options.


This is left of Femp in the large, left-facing corner. If you see Endless Crack, you're too far right.


Gear: a standard Lumpy Rack with extras in the #1-3 Camalot size. I carried (1) #3 and could have used another or a #4, a 70m rope, and lots of long slings to minimize rope drag. The second belay requires some work to find/set up if you do not use the small tree 30 feet back from the edge.

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By Kelli Deeter
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 17, 2016
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great as the second. Lots of loose large rocks. I enjoyed it!
By S2k4life
From: beaver creek, CO
Jul 25, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Just did this route after Pear and was pumped and fell when the two cracks pettered out. Def. the crux, 2nd pitch was not easy either, had to do a lil' 3rd pitch easy traverse to get to the walkoff safely. Walkoff sucks, leave your climbing shoes on, tough 2 long pitches. It was fun, didn't feel much loose rock, 5.8.

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