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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ren Fenton, Charles Kemp, 1962
Page Views: 736
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Aug 1, 2001

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Femp is a good crack climb up the right side of the J-crack slab, though the cruxes involve delicate face climbing. It is easily identified as the next continuous crack line right (a considerable distance) of J-crack, and starts from the same ledge, about 100 feet off the ground.

After reaching the Book, hike right, passing the opposing flakes of Pear Buttress and Loose Ends, the start to J-crack, and stop just past the Cavity, a huge crystalline hole with a large tree, and a clean, thin LF corner rising out of it.

P1- Climb the 5.2 corner right of this and go left to reach the base of the crack, or climb the Cavity corner (5.10, recommended). Belay directly below the crack.

P2- Climb the full rope-length crack pitch, with the first crux at a suspect pin where the crack briefly dies, and the second at a very thin corner at the top. Belay above the thin corner.

P3-many options-- a)traverse left on an easy ramp (J-crack) and continue up to the Cave area. b) climb a crack to an apexed roof (5.7), and continue up a slab to a flaky, right-leaning 5.7 chimney through the roof band, which leads to the descent (long pitch). c) climb the overhanging, LF corner above the belay ("Hemp", rated 5.10), and continue with "b" or "d". d) traverse right to a thin 5.9+ crack which leads to a belay beneath a long, reddish roof band. Turn the roof at a wedged flake (also 5.9+) and merge with the top part of "b".


Bring extra Friends from #3-3.5. Also, be sure to have some very small gear left at the top of the crux lead.

Photos of Femp Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 1974, homemade harness, painters pants, EBs, and h...
1974, homemade harness, painters pants, EBs, and h...
Rock Climbing Photo: Heading up the original last pitch.
Heading up the original last pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Below the upper crux.
Below the upper crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the crack to the first belay.
Looking down the crack to the first belay.
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the first pitch.
Starting the first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Headed up pitch 2.
Headed up pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: This was taken on August 10, 2008.  Rain moved in ...
This was taken on August 10, 2008. Rain moved in ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike has just passed the "crux" moving i...
Mike has just passed the "crux" moving i...

Comments on Femp Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 17, 2014
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 26, 2001

The second pitch is almost exactly 165 feet- I remember having a hard time setting up a comfortable belay because at that point I was working purely with rope stretch. A long rope would be nice to have for this pitch.
By Errett Allen
Jun 14, 2002

60 meter rope does the trick here.
By Joe Collins
Jul 15, 2002

The pin on pitch 2 can be backed up... I didn't end up clipping it. The 2nd pitch is clean, flaring, Lumpyness... but somewhat of a slog.
By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Sep 9, 2002

An excellent climb.
By Chris Fisher
Oct 21, 2002

Nice long second pitch. Used a lot of stoppers on the second pitch. Traversed over to the Cave for the Cave Exit Roof.
By M. Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 21, 2003

The second pitch took almost my entire rack - it just keeps going, and going, and going....
By Holly Barnard
Jun 23, 2003

Aside from the crux areas, this crack has solid hand jams (with a couple fists) all the way up it. The cruxes are delicate and balancey, but generally well protected. I thought the hardest part was the move just before clipping the pin. I imagine that it might be easier for someone with some reach. P2 is definitely a 3-star pitch!

Since the pitch is pretty straight, you can be conservative with the runners without too many rope drag issues. Having two #2 Camalots is helpful.
By Barrett Cooper
Aug 28, 2003

Pitch 1 the 5.4 variation has a lot of loose, large boulders on it. Watch out what you grab up by the tree.

Pitch 2 is an endless, straight, gear eating crack without a lot of good rests. It ran about 185'.

Pitch 3 version C as listed above brings a lot of rope drag into the picture since you travese out left from the belay for about 30 feet before turning a 90 degree corner into the 5.8ish dihedral. Variation C is all about stemming once you get around the corner and runs about 180' in length to the top of theweakness in the roof.
By Bill Gibbs
From: Wichita, Ks.
Feb 5, 2006

Pitch 2 definitely makes this a classic and worth doing. You want the lead on pitch 2.
By John Peterson
Feb 5, 2006

I'd say this is a bit stouter than J-crack. Fewer rests and less obvious cruxes. Not as aesthetic but well worth doing.
By Mike McKinnon
From: Golden, CO
Jul 24, 2006

Went up to do J-Crack and wound up on Femp. Go figure.

For a rack I would bring 4 #2 and a #3 if you really want to get comfortable. I brought 1 #2 and no #3s and the top half of the crack eats #2s and would take a #3 as well. I really wanted my #2 that I placed on the lower half. Also, the thin section at top takes a #0.4 Camalot in the good hand slot and also a bomber black Alien about 4 inches above that. It is a great climb.

Is Femp harder/easier than J-Crack?
By Danny Inman
From: Arvada
Sep 21, 2006

I think Femp is more stout than the 5.9 pitch of J. This is a very worthy climb, the main crack pitch is very long, I felt there were two distinct cruxes (1) at the piton and (2) the last couple of slabby moves to the belay.
By Cale Farnham
Sep 10, 2008

This is one of my favs @ Lumpy! Solid crack and very well protected! Do this route and yell with joy @ the top! Two cruxes pretty balancy and as said protected well! 3 stars!
By pfwein
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 21, 2009

Gear beta: maybe bring 3 each #2 and #3 Camalots (and double set below, or what the hell, bring trips of all) to protect long pitch well; blue Metolius was great at the top crux. We exited nicely by going right to 5.9+ crack, then traverse right beneath roof to steep finish, which is kind of strenuous but protects well. Great route.
By Cale Farnham
Aug 13, 2009

Had an excellent time with Phil back in 07' climbing one of first 9 trad routes. Definitely a favorite of mine!
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Aug 22, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I had a more difficult time on the second pitch of this climb than cavity corner/crack/ whatever it is, and not even at the cruxes! The crux for me was getting out of the large v-slot chimney thing after the first crux. If you suck at crack climbing and would prefer steep crimping Eldo-ish climbs (like me!), get ready for a wild ride! I wish I had at least doubles on #2 and #3 sizes.
By W. Spaller
Mar 26, 2012

IMO, this climb is much more fun than J Crack and not nearly as painful on the feet!
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Mar 29, 2012

Spent a weekend doing Femp, Pear Buttress, and J-Crack. That was a full, fun crack time, Lumpy style!
By John Korfmacher
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 30, 2012

Excellent climb...much of the route protects well with stoppers, although a couple of extra pieces in the #0.5-#2 Camalot range are useful for the long, long P2. The thin corner near the top of P2 was definitely the crux for me. Except for the cruxes, much of the rest of this pitch is 5.7-5.8 with occasional non-footjam rests.

I definitely recommend the 5.10b finish (option C in the route description) which is exposed, strenuous, and well-protected.
By Mitch Musci
From: Estes Park, CO
Nov 12, 2013

That pin on P2 has seen better days. A #4 BD stopper fits in a great constriction a few feet below it. Taking the 5.9 seam to the right for P3 makes for a killer linkup!
By Alex Vidal
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 17, 2014

Pretty nice route with pretty good protection. The pin seemed reasonable, and there are two good small (#4ish BD) nut placements within close proximity (1ft and 3ft). Also, it is possible to get to the Cave Exit/Cheap Date options by climbing the original finishing pitch, up through the roof onto the slab, and then working left through some very moderate slab (runout).

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