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North Cliffband
Routes Sorted
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Back to Montana S,TR 
Cochiti Classic T 
Cochiti Ugly T,TR 
Empty and Meaningless S 
Feminist Men S 
Grunge Up the Munge T 
Gunning for the Buddha S 
Holy Wars S,TR 
La Espina S,TR 
Laurel's Climb S 
Monkey Lust S 
Montana Deviate T,S 
Mr. Toad's Wild Ride T,TR 
Napoleon Blown-Apart S 
Open Mouth Syndrome (OMS) S 
Pickpocket S 
Praise the Lunge S 
Thief Crack T 
Thief in Time S 
To Catch A Thief S 
Touch Monkey S 
Unknown S 
Unknown - Boulder Left S 

Feminist Men 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Leslie Coon
Page Views: 28
Submitted By: George Perkins on Aug 17, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

This climb tempts you, as it looks like a nice face, starting from the comfy porch ledge that you belay from for the popular warm-up to its left (Monkey Lust).

It's a thin face start to a horizontal crack, an awkward high step, and one tough move to the monopocket to clip the 3rd bolt. The crux is pulling on one and two finger pockets between 3rd and 4th bolts, with an easier finish.

All 3 guidebooks say this climb has modified/chipped holds and therefore should be avoided at all costs. I didn't think the climbing or the rock was horrendous, but the climb certainly isn't up to the average standard for Cochiti for overall quality.

Location 

Just right of Monkey Lust, starts on the flat block balcony. Climb up the chimney to the right, or Laurel's Climb or Unknown to get to the start.

Protection 

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. One of the guides says the hangers were removed at one point, but they are all there as of 2008.


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