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Felonious Mopery 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: June 14, 2012 Thomas Lane & Jay Harrison
New Route: Yes
Season: April - November
Page Views: 280
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Jun 18, 2012

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The Mighty Tom Lane on FA Day.

Description 

A worthwhile jaunt, like several routes here a hard start, creamy middle, and more hard stuff at the top.

P1: Climb corner and cracks to overhang. Use the handcrack to surmount it and continue to the top of the cliff.

Location 

Start: at a micro left-facing corner ending at 7' and leading to vertical cracks that break through an overhang 30' up. Near the center of the cliff.
Fixed tree anchor at the top.

Protection 

Standard rack. Tom mentioned Hexes...


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By kenr
Aug 7, 2012

Maybe the start is easier if start higher to the right? (but then the only difficult part is the obvious overhang).

Interesting question whether the crux goes easier as a pure layback, or with some jamming?

Actually the non-crux sections are nice enough, just much easier than the crux.

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