Feeding The Rat
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Deb in the upper crux.
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This is a difficult-to-set-up toprope problem that has 2 interesting parts and might be led at a R rating.
There are 2 possible starts. The left start above a bush is a bit reachy for the height-challenged. The right start is noticeably easier. Continue up moderate terrain to the upper double crack system. Start in the left crack and move up and right into the other crack. Unfortunately, the topout doesn't have much for an anchor.
Maybe we could put in a bolted anchor if folks actually found this interesting.
We used a funky combo of an okay #4 BD wire at the top of the climb with a long (10') directional off a #1 Camalot and yellow Alien under a boulder to the left and a bomberang type threaded sling under a large boulder after topping out One Rat Too Many
BETA PHOTO: The route with a rope over the left start.
By Jay Eggleston
Sep 20, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I thought this was interesting, but I doubt the cliff will ever be popular, so a bolt anchor is not really needed. If this were somewhere like High Wire, it would likely become popular but not here.