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Feeding Frenzy 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Alvino Pon & Eric Van Doren
Page Views: 64
Submitted By: Ross Swanson on Apr 25, 2015

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Joseffa not too sure of the crux moves on lead. T...

Description 

Feeding Frenzy is a classic St. Vrain sport route with a little lichen at the crux. This route just keeps on giving the whole way, 10+ moves after the second bolt. The holds at the crux are surprisingly good. Once past the crux, have fun turning the roof, it's easy to get sucked in on your back, but the hand jams make the exit okay.

Don't yard on the big flake to right and just below the anchors.

Location 

It is on the right side of the wall that faces NE. Getting to the base of this climb is not easy, enter the gully and proceed up (watch for loose rock) until you can traverse right to a ledge. Do a scary step across, and continue on the ledge until you enter the upper right side of the gully.

To descend, rap the tree.

Protection 

13 bolts + 2 bolt anchor.

You may want a red or yellow Camalot for the traverse under the roof with a long sling.


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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 17, 2017
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The second '10d' crux up high is probably 10b, not 10d. The real crux is certainly at the 3rd bolt.

You can undercling and lean back at the top roof and not get sucked in, and the route flows better that way.

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