Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Barnum Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Accidental Tourist S 
Ann Bay Lee S 
Ars Fabrilis S 
Beatle Bay Lee S 
Beavis S 
Butthead S 
Cornholio T 
El Diablo T 
Feed The Sweed S 
Foul Fowl S 
GumBold-er 
Gumby-B-Bold 
Memorial Daze S 
No Hope Without Dope T 
Pizz Whiz T,S 
Ranger Danger S 
Sweet Pea T 
Twin Peaks T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Feed The Sweed 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Anders Z., Dominic W., Chris M, Tony F.,
Page Views: 789
Submitted By: Anders Zway on Mar 7, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: looking down at pitch 3

Closed to climbing, Feb 1 - Aug 31 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is the next route right of Ann Bay Lee. This is the only sport route that leads all the way to the top of Barnum Rock.

Pitch 1 / 60ft (5.8):
Start off on vertical face climbing which quickly leads to a small roof. Pull the small roof which puts you into the delicate crux section. Continue on easier climbing to anchors on top of pitch 1.

Pitch 1 is fun to do just as a single pitch if you don't wanna do or don't have time to do the whole route. It has mussy anchors to lower off

Pitch 2 / 60 ft (5.6):
The second pitches crux is the first two bolts. Climbing up and right through the crux to then hit easier terrain. Follow the bolts that roll out right and up to the second anchor on a large ledge.

Pitch 3 / 75 ft (5.8):
The last pitch leaves from the large ledge and makes its way through some beautiful rolling slabs. The end of the slabs is guarded by a small slightly overhanging crack that makes the crux of this pitch. Make the exposed crux moves through the crack and pull on to the upper clean slab. Look out left for the final bolts and moves.

Descent: Walk off to the North. Hike down hill along the west side of the wall to get back to the main wall area.

Note: There's a rap anchor with steel biners on it on the back side below the block atop the last pitch. You can use this for an anchor (instead of the single bolt) and then rappel to the saddle off the back where the walk down starts.

Location 

This route is the next route right of Ann Bay Lee.

Protection 

Bolts, anchors


Photos of Feed The Sweed Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Don V. leading Feed the Sweed.
BETA PHOTO: Don V. leading Feed the Sweed.

Comments on Feed The Sweed Add Comment
Show which comments
By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 24, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

First pitch is really good and the last two are worth doing as it reminded me of Sheepshead. Good for the moderate team. If you know how to jam the finish is not the crux.
By Justin Headley
From: Tucson
Sep 14, 2014

Fun route. My partner and I found communication from the top to bottom of pitch 2 to be impossible. And pitch 3 has horrendous rope drag if you use standard quickdraws. Bring some extensions.
By mitchl
Nov 21, 2014

- Spacious belay ledges for pitches 1 and 2
- Pitch 2 bolt path goes off to the right at about a 45 degree angle
- Hard to communicate from the pitch 2 belay ledge- just assume you won't be able to hear each other; and you cannot see the climbers below (nor can they see their belayer)
- Don't count on throwing the rope down to the climbers from the pitch 2 belay ledge: have everyone trail a rope up that is attached to the climber below on the pitch 1 belay ledge
- The pitch 3 crux (the crack) is where you will get rope drag if you don't use a long runner- but this is where you want it snug if you don't know the good holds are up on the left. If you want extra piece of mind, then you can reach up as high as you can in the crack and put a cam in- but with a long runner.
- There's still a little bit of unprotected climbing after pitch 3 (about 8 feet), then when you reach the top, slide down the slope carefully and walk off the left side (your back is to the Feed the Sweed route you just climbed up).
- This is a very nice multi-pitch climb: terrific views, muzzy anchors to make your belay anchor set-up simple, fairly easy 5.8 climbing (pitch 1 requires the most effort).
By wwm
Sep 18, 2016

You can rap off using a single 80m rope if you rap each pitch, which we did b/c I forgot to actually read the description before we climbed it. We left biners up there for this purpose.

Also, I think maybe its a good bit longer than in the description...we were almost at the ends of the rope (80m) on the rappel from the anchors to the 2nd belay station, and that's while rappelling straight down. From the 2nd belay station to the 1st, there was a little more rope left, but still I think the pitch is much longer than 60 feet. Fun easy multi pitch for my first 3 pitch lead!!
By Vyache G
Nov 12, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The first pitch is great and lots of fun. The second and third pitches are worth doing for the view from the top as you can see all of Tucson as well as the beautiful San Pedro river valley, but there is hardly any actual climbing. Pitch 2 is more like a hike than a 5.6, and besides the one 5.8 move on pitch 3, the rest is ~5.5.

20 ft below the 2nd belay ledge is another very large ledge where you can see and easily communicate with your belayer at the top of pitch 1. One option to get around the difficult communication problem at the 2nd belay ledge is to clove into your anchor leaving yourself ~20 ft of slack between your harness and your clove, and then lowering yourself down the slack using a grigri until you reach the ledge where you can communicate with your belayer. The terrain here is very very easy and can be traversed without the grigri if you don't have one with you.