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Bloody Fingers Corridor
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Breezeway T 
Featured Face T 
Hough's Crack T 
Intruding Dike T 

Featured Face 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: ?
Season: Faces N/NE
Page Views: 563
Submitted By: Tony B on May 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Becky on the top-out moves of Featured Face.


A good route with good holds and mostly secure climbing, but little for protection. As such, this makes just as good of a solo as a lead. The holds are good and the rock is solid. This would also be an good beginner TR since the moves are fairly intuitive and no special jamming skills or crimping/smearing/stemming is required- it climbs more like a ladder.


This well-featured face lies about midway between the routes "Hough's Crack" and "Breezeway." Climb your way up through the big holds to a crux up high where you will wander slightly to keep the line of lowest resistance.


A good solo or TR. Others say you can get good pro in (see comments below).

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By Brian in SLC
Oct 4, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

With the exception of the bouldery start, reasonable protection can be had with small cams (00 TCU to 3 TCU or equivalent) in fairly deep and secure horizontal cracks spaced at nice locations up the route. Save a #3 camalot (ect) for the belay on the bench leading to the groove/chimney down climb to the West. If this route went for 200 feet it'd be all world!
By zoso
Oct 4, 2009

Good to know. Now maybe I'll give it a go. Any slinging of horns, etc?
By Brian in SLC
Oct 4, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I used a sling to back up (and tie down) my cam for the belay on the ramp, but, didn't really notice any on the route.

After the initial moves, I tried to trend a bit left to extend the route up as high as possible (fun, big holds!). I really thought after the bouldery start, the route was around 5.3 in difficulty (give or take). Only thing I'd caution is that although the rock felt really solid, I'm sure you could find a friable jug to pop off if you yarded hard enough on the thin ones. Near the top, the gear sorta runs out onto the lower angle slab, but, you're really on your feet at that point.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Sep 3, 2015

Pro used:
#4 in a big pocket (maybe 20 feet up)
Slung slot (you have to hunt for it)
#0.3 after the giant last patina dinner plate

2 #2s and 1 #3 for the anchor way up and back.

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