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Campfire Crag - South Face
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Cold Carnitas Leftovers T 
Feast T 
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Feast 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 543
Submitted By: Tony B on Jan 6, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: Campfire Crag (S. Face Right), Joshua Tree NP

Description 

This is a route not described in the Bartlett or Vogel books. I am guessing at it's difficulty, but it was certainly insecure, and probably 5.11a - 11c, maybe harder. At Josh I have a hard time differentiating between security and difficulty because I judge difficulty by my perceived odds of falling off. Suffice it to say, I felt like I could have come off on this one, and the 10's had been feeling really secure.

On a distinctly white section of face near the center of the main south face, perhaps 8 meters right of "C Lunch" and 5 meters right of a lone bolt in an easy groove, there is a bolt on the face. This is up perhaps 2 meters from a horizontal break in the rock. Climb up to this and establish feet to clip a bolt, then climb the crux (insecure, & possibly height-dependant) to palm smear up above. Then climb easier rock (ground fall potential, but 5.5 or so) up to distinct dark features at a slight bulge and 2 more bolts. Top out and belay on a 2-bolt anchor.

Fun, puzzling, and Oh my god I can't believe I stuck to that!?!? I describe the grips as "palming an oversized basketball."

Protection 

a few draws for clips. The first bolt is 6 meters up, the second 20 meters, but the climbing between is not hard.


Photos of Feast Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Feast topo
BETA PHOTO: Feast topo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Feast". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Feast". Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Feast Add Comment
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By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Jan 2, 2015

Came in from the left past the first bolt which might have made it a grade easier, but the top section is no gimme. Probably solid 11. Secret is like the submitter suggested.... just palm the sucker like a big basketball and you'll probably hang on.... that is...if you have the energy!

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