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Unsorted Routes:

Feast and Famine 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Ken Mills, Jimmy Steagall & Eric Hanson '92'
Season: Late Winter-Spring to Autumn
Page Views: 1,213
Submitted By: David Arthur Sampson on Aug 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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This climb has two cruxes; pulling the first overhang/ roof and then pulling the second roof.

Awesome climbing on fairly steep rock. Either do the boulder problem start, or by-pass on the right; scramble up the slab to the first overhang/ roof for the first bolt.


The fourth climb on your left as you enter the corridor proper (as I recall- I will look this up)- look for a bulgy overhang ~ one meter off the deck, followed by a slab run to a second overhang/ roof. A second small roof (~60 feet) can be seen from the deck.


7 bolts to a two shut rap.

Photos of Feast and Famine Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bouldery start, multiple roofs, crack underclings,...
Bouldery start, multiple roofs, crack underclings,...

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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 19, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

FA's - Ken Mills, Jimmy Steagall & Eric Hanson '92
By JimmyK
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 24, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

More difficult than 10c/d. 1st roof was challanging but well protected. 2nd roof was more challanging and less protected.
By brucy
Apr 15, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

We (my partner and I) thought the route as way more difficult then the guide book states- if one straddles the bolts at the upper crux. Also, we thought the protection could have been better placed on the upper crux as well. By chance, two years after our ascent, we overheard a party of two just finishing the route who were mumbling that they thought the route as middle 11 if Public Hanging was 11c and Armed and Dangerous was 11b.
By Stephane Fitch
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Jun 13, 2015
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R

The second roof on this route is extremely spicy, and you're well above your protection at that point. If you've climbed the route a number of times, maybe it starts to feel like a 5.10d, but seriously, I would rate this a 5.11 b/c if you decide to pull the second roof by working the pockets that lie mostly to the right side of the face under the roof. An alternative way to make this route feel a little less intense (but it's still dangerous, because you're looking at a giant runout) is to go left into the chimney when you get to the second roof. So you end up skipping that bolt and running it out to the penultimate bolt below the anchors. Yes, that makes the climb at 5.10d, but the danger rating jumps to R due to the long runout.

Having said that, it is an exciting climb. Go cautiously, but if you can work this out, it's worth it. And once you have your top rope set up, you can take multiple runs at the crux and maybe get comfortable with it.

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