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Fear of Intimacy 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: DMrn, JST, EFR, EMdk
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Winter, Fall
Page Views: 723
Submitted By: Jimbo on Jan 4, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Geir on the final moves. This is the end of the 35...


Fun first half leads to a good rest in gully. Then over and up to the steep arete with some long tricky moves and pumpy clips.
If you can't get the last bolt clipped the fall is totally safe. Trust me I know.

This one is much easier with the draws already hung.


Starts just left of Techno Savage. Then crosses gully to overhanging arete just right of Crossed Up.


Bolts, Chains

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By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Jan 10, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

We hopped on this to "warm up" thinking it was the 10- in the book.. Oops. I was definitely warmed up by the time i topped out. Fun, fun movement on the 2nd half of this route. I load tested the crux bolt.. it works really well. Thanks for the work and for the biner anchors! :)
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jan 12, 2015

25 cm draws on bolts 3 and 4 might work to eliminate the rope drag up high.

17 cm + unclipping bolt 4 didn't seem to completely eliminate it.

It's possible some of the draws in the middle should be long too.

Stick-clipping second bolt also recommended, rock is still friable.

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