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Fear of Flying 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 1985 Robert McGown, Guigi Regis
Season: When Open
Page Views: 181
Submitted By: Colin Parker on Aug 21, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Topher following pitch one.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb starts in a corner about fifteen feet below and to climber's left of the snag ledge anchors. The route can be easily identified by the three fixed pins lodged in the seam at the back of the corner. The first pitch, which is 5.10a, climbs this corner using mostly stemming moves and some face holds on the right-hand arete. When possible climb over the left-hand arete and finish up another crack to the ledge with the Jill's Thrill anchor. You may then optionally continue up a second pitch consisting of a 5.10b thin crack before again joining up with Jill's Thrill higher up.

Protection 

Standard Rack to 1.5", Three draws for fixed pins


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By Topher Dabrowski
Oct 25, 2015

The second pitch for this route is short and from the looks of the vegetation and lichen, rarely climbed. The pins are sketchy and backing them up with smaller cams basically eats up the holds. Not in character with the first pitch.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
6 days ago

Rapped down the 2nd pitch after doing Jill's Thrill. The thin seam was filled with grass and even little trees. It also appeared mostly unprotectable, with a single rusty pin right off a ledge. Possibly good, stemmy climbing if you can dig out some tiny placements (or possibly put in some bolts?).

When belaying for the first pitch, which is basically a direct continuation of Little Wing, you'll probably want to build a gear anchor. If linking these two pitches (recommended), the only bolted anchors nearby are the SE Corner and 1st pitch of Jill's, which are not in good positions to belay from directly. Instead, after you've belayed your follower up the first pitch, just move to the right and make two rappels from these anchors.

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