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East Face of Buzzard's Roost
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aquatic Anxiety T 
Fear of Flying T 
Little Feat T 
Little Hans (aka. Conspiracy a Go-Go) S 
Shrike T 
Snatch T,TR 
Texas Crude T 
Unsorted Routes:

Fear of Flying 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: James Crump
Page Views: 8,488
Submitted By: sirhctrebor on Dec 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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Laybacking near the top of Fear of Flying

Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset MORE INFO >>>


This is one of the most infamous central Texas climbs, and rightly so. Fear of Flying is a continuous crack in a beautiful dihedral that widens up top. Most choose to lieback this beast, which makes the climbing easier, but adds an interesting challenge when placing big gear.


Once you locate the East Face of Buzzard's Roost, find the 80' most prominent dihedral rising above a large triangular block leaning against the wall.


Crack widens significantly near the top. There are no anchors. Bring several long slings or an anchor rope to build an adequate anchor.

Photos of Fear of Flying Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: sewing it up
sewing it up
Rock Climbing Photo: Fear if Flying, FA James Crump, 5.10 R, 1977, Ench...
Fear if Flying, FA James Crump, 5.10 R, 1977, Ench...
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of Fear of's Scott loving ...
The start of Fear of's Scott loving ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Fear of Flying for the Granite Gripper
Leading Fear of Flying for the Granite Gripper
Rock Climbing Photo: Fear of Flying
Fear of Flying

Comments on Fear of Flying Add Comment
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By marc rosenthal
From: Canyon Lake, TX
Aug 5, 2007

My brother and I were headed up to the base of this route in the early 80's. We arrived just in time to meet up with Chris Rowens who had just led it with some interesting gear for the wide sections . . . bongs and 2 x 4's!
By talkinrocks
From: Boulder, CO
May 24, 2009

So much fun!! If you are leading it, walking your gear is the key to this beast. If you are TR, lieback till the cows come home and dont stop moving for the fear of flying or a good flash pump.
By jeremy long
May 19, 2011

I MISS ENCHANTED ROCK! I love the cave on the main dome
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 28, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Awesome route! A full blown lieback beast! But not actually too pumpy or hard due to the good feet (use the crack for some heel toe cams). I would bring 2 #4 camalots and 1 #5 camalot for the top. I didn't bring a five and if you were to blow the mantle up top you'd be in for a long flight, back to the last number 4. Walk the cams when you can and it protects well! Bring a number 2 and 3 for the first 20 feet.
Nov 30, 2014

I placed a # 5 and #6 for the last 20'...6 fits beautifully as last piece.
By Tommy G.
From: Killeen, Texas
Dec 8, 2014

Unless you are super solid at the grade you will want at least one #6.

I took 2 and would do it again.
By Carson Baker
From: Portland, OR
Jan 21, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

After building a top-rope anchor, I put in a #6 camalot as a directional to keep the ropes from running too deep inside the fissure.
By Greg Barbosa
From: Austin, TX
May 24, 2015

Arguably the highest quality rock in the park, and certainly one of the most striking lines. A must do!! I used an interesting method to toprope this with the limited materials I had. We set small to medium pieces in the numerous cracks which are (inconveniently) found quite far away from the edge of the cliff. We then tied a large loop in a 7mm static line that we'd been using as a tag line and equalized the pieces, effectively making a really big cordalette. The master point (and the rope) stayed out of the crack nicely, and we felt like we had a super bomber anchor. Just thought I'd share in case anyone else out there wants to toprope this beautiful climb but doesn't have access to large gear.
By Tao Techakanon
From: Bangkok, Thailand
Jan 15, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

This route kicked the living shit out of me. You can definitely OW instead of lay back toward the top. Such an awesome climb!

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