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Fear Not 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 840', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Paul Ross, Layne Potter
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 22
Submitted By: USBRIT Ross on May 20, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: The routes on the Triple Buttress. A Runout Ridge...

Description 

"Fear Not", 840' III, 5.8+R. Starts about 400' up the slot canyon just left of Mellow Yellow. From I-70 go 6.1 miles to a right turn, this leads to Three Finger Canyon. Go 1.7 miles to camp on right. The Triple Slab Buttress is straight ahead about a 15 minute walk. The scramble up the canyon is a bit rough but worth it! When one reaches a slightly overhanging dark brown wall on the left with a slab on the right, this is the start of the climb. An interesting classic reef slab route that gets better with altitude...

1) Up the slab on the right and follow edge of slot to a steeper groove/corner on the right. 200' 5.4
2) Cross into the groove and follow to double anchors below a steep slab. 160' 5.5
3) Up thin flakes on the left (#9 Metolius useful), then past a bolt to double anchors by an alcove. 100' 5.8R.
4) Straight up groove past a pro bolt to double anchors in a small cave. 120' 5.8+R
5) Left from cave past a short section of steep sandy rock then more easier up slab to good ledge and double anchors. 200' 5.7
6) Nice open slab direct to summit and register in cairn. 60' 5.4R

Descent.... One can rap the route. Sling and rap rings needed on the double anchors, as the FA party traversed onto the top of Mellow Yellow and descended that route. To do that is as follows:- Rap to top of Pitch 4 from the summit(cave belay). From here traverse right for about 80' to gully 5.5. Ascend gully to the notch and belay. Move out left up and around the corner and a 5.7 60' pitch takes one to the summit of The Mellow Yellow (register) route. From the top 4th class down for about 200'to double rap anchors in a shallow groove. Four raps to the ground. Note angle left out of the groove near the end of 3rd rap to large ledge, anchors down and right of ledge system. From here one rap to ground. FA Paul Ross, Layne Potter 20th May 2004.

Protection 

Cams: Friends .5, 1, 2, 2.5. Metolius #7 and #9, spare slings 2x60m ropes.


Photos of Fear Not Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Layne on the summit  1200" above the desert f...
Layne on the summit 1200" above the desert f...
Rock Climbing Photo: Layne near top of pitch 4. Note trucks at camp sit...
Layne near top of pitch 4. Note trucks at camp sit...
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul on pitch 4, Fear Not.
Paul on pitch 4, Fear Not.
Rock Climbing Photo: A)Fear Not.5.8R B)Mellow Yellow.5.8  C)Cumbria 5.9...
BETA PHOTO: A)Fear Not.5.8R B)Mellow Yellow.5.8 C)Cumbria 5.9...

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