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Fear No Evil 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Norm Booth and Jay Smith, 1979.
Page Views: 5,261
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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1st pitch of "Fear No Evil". Photo by Bl...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


1) Start left of the arching corner left of "Fantasia". Climb past Three bolts to a belay.
2) Climb up to a bolt and some weird mantle moves (5.9). Climb past a fixed pin to a two bolt anchor.
3) Climb up to a crack/corner with a pin, continue up to a belay.
4) Wander to the top.

I haven't done this route in over twenty years. The pins may be gone. Use your best judgement.


Pro to 2 in.

Photos of Fear No Evil Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Fear No Evil". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Fear No Evil". Photo by Blitzo.

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By 426
Mar 6, 2007

Another superb face climb, but don't get on it until you are tuned into leap runouts.

A bit harder than it's neighboring route. Do Fantasia first, if you are feeling froggy then try this one.
By brian chandler
From: Zephyr Cove, Nevada
Sep 11, 2009

It has been many, many years since I've climbed this route but, I remember it being a bold climb.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Sep 24, 2009

Bolts replaced by Mucci September 2009:
By Blitzo
Aug 24, 2010

Another classic! Falling would not be in your best interest.
By Salamanizer suchoski
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jul 18, 2011

Better than Fantasia IMO. It's like Fantasia, accept without all that boring dike hikeing. Yeah, it's a dike hike too, but you'll be far form bored on this one.
By KevinHecka
Mar 3, 2012

I did this route back in 89. Is that dicey flake past the 2nd (?) bolt still there? I remember tossing a TCU behind it and just praying the whole thing didn't fall off when I mantled on it :). It's nice to see that the bolts have been changed out. Great lead, great route.

By Nate varela
From: gardnerville, nevada
Apr 14, 2012

this route is 5.9 R!!!
By Kevin Hecka
From: Speed of Light
Nov 21, 2012

I haven't done this route since 94 or so but it was by far one of the most memorable routes in my climbing history. It's all there, just keep your head on! :)

By K. Boyko
From: Where the dog is
May 9, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X

Fun route. But heads up: Defiantly R if not X in some sections. Not for the 5.9 (or maybe even 5.10) climber.

Difficult route finding as you see no bolts/pins, and you could go anywhere on the sills. Good luck, please don't fall!

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