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Fawn Crack 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 522
Submitted By: Benjaminadk on May 21, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Valerie Bachinsky climbing Fawn Crack 5.7(+), New ...


Climb a small corner to a stance beneath an right rising finger crack. Make a couple strenous and painful moves to pull a small overhang and gain the crack (crux). Continue up the crack to friction climbing protected with bolts to fixed anchors.


Five feet up and right of Ten Point Buck at a small right arching, right facing corner topped with a crack in a slight overhang.


Protect the finger crack with a couple pieces and continue on clipping bolts.

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By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
May 28, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Looks better than it is.

**Update** On a return visit, I think this might be pushing 5.8 for the one or two crux moves through the roof. Highly protectible, although I've only top roped it after someone led the easier 5.6 to the left...
By Benjaminadk
From: San Pedro, California
Jun 13, 2013

it is also a little bit harder than it looks. but is very G.
By Tom Sherman
From: Bristol, RI
Jun 30, 2014

My first mock trad lead. As stated very 'G'. Took stoppers, hexes, tricams of various sizes. I sewed it up and including bolts had 9 pieces in. While there is 1-2ish hard moves it did not feel very challenging. 5.7+ seems appropriate although I am 6'-2" which may contribute to my opinion. Gaining the roof was not the crux, but the move after the roof/ trying to make a placement at this point. Low rating because if you can make the lower moves/crux the upper climbing will be very very easy.
By J. Serpico
From: Saratoga County, NY
Oct 28, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I haven't led it, but even after top roping it, it's not a 5.7 on that cliff I intend to lead anytime soon. The crux is low and ground fall is a definite factor on lead. The friction under the roof is kind of slippery compared to all the other routes. Is it 5.7+, well compared to the route left of it, which is 5.6 (and I led onsight), it's significantly harder. Maybe if the friction was better. I enjoyed the route but it's really just V0 boulder problem and some low fifth class slab.

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