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5.1 The Shelves
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anna’s Transformation TR 
Consuelo from the South TR 
Faust TR 
Hans the Nordic Boy TR 
Margarete TR 
Megan’s Disappearance TR 
Mephistopheles TR 
Rachel’s Obsession TR 
Raskolnikov's Duality TR 
Tonio Kröger's duality TR 

Faust 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: TR Ken+Sharon Roberts
Page Views: 43
Submitted By: kenr on May 10, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: The Shelves E. Faust F. Mephistopheles G. Marga...

Description 

Interesting moves up short faces separated by ledges.

Basically .. climb three feet left from the dihedral / V-chimney route the whole way up. Start just left of the dihedral / V-chimney (arete is "on"). Up a ways to the center of the overhanging bulge. Delicate moves starting up left side of bulge, then over its top. Up a ways to the final face -- take this 6-8 feet left of the cap stone.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location 

Just left of the obvious (low-right-side) narrow dihedral / V-chimney.

- - > See on this Photo

Protection 

For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this Shelves sector.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.


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