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The Bog Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beyond The Bog S 
Black Butterfly T 
Fathers and Sons TR 
Focus T 
Holy Grail T,TR 
Up From the Bog T,TR 
Veils of Illusion T,TR 

Fathers and Sons 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: S. Hutchinson, D. Hutchinson, 1990
Page Views: 388
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Apr 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Description 

While this climb could be led, and even has a bolt at the crux (but not at the time of the FA apparently), I've listed it as a TR for two reasons: it would be a very bold lead (if you avoided the better holds and placements on the adjacent route), and because it's an eliminate. You have to work hard not to use the holds on Veils of Illusion.

Despite all of that, it's a fun workout on a TR and has some thin and delicate moves of a style found in many places in Squamish.

Location 

The face immediately left of Veils of Illusion.

Protection 

To lead it would require dicey thin wire placements, I would think. The bolt at the crux would take a big load off your mind. I'm speculating since I haven't, and don't plan to lead it. The bolts at the top of Veils work for this climb too.


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By David Hutchinson
Nov 30, 2010

So, David Jones cleaned this route and several others. He offered me the opportunity to lead the route while with my son Seth Sanford,age 13, and others Jim Bourgeois, I believe Bob Kandiko and Karen Neubauer as well. I did the traditional ground up with pro, placed the bolt while on lead and led the route to the belay ledge. Just to let you know. Dave was gracious enough to name the route fathers and sons and when Seth was 21 we were back together and he said Dad I didn't really do this without help, could I make the lead. He did, and today I am still very greatful to Dave for the bonding opportunity he provided. Seth also made his first lead at age 12 on Cat Crack that year; and just this season led his first 5.14a, Roadside Prophet, at Rifle, CO. Still climbing at 62 and 32.

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