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Father Figure 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Greg Hand, Kent Lugbill and Ray Snead, July 2003.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,544
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jun 15, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (83)
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  • Description 

    On the far rightside of the Bowling Alley almost near the road is a cluster of four routes near a large ponderosa tree. This route climbs the blunt-arete on fairly good holds past several bolts. Clip the first bolt (black hanger) and step up and left to the second bolt. Tend right back towards the arete to a testy moves past the third and fourth bolts. Reach a good flake and make a strenuous move over a small bulge and reach a good rest. Head up and right to a good ledge and power up past the last two bolts to the anchor. Good climb!

    Protection 

    Eight bolts with get you to a two-bolt anchor.


    Comments on Father Figure Add Comment
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    By Scott Conner
    From: Lyons, CO
    Jun 17, 2003

    ...and it took all four of them to put this one climb up! :-)
    By Greg Hand
    From: Golden, CO
    Jun 17, 2003

    Actually it is probably close to 125 years! We began in the era when the "shoulder stand" was considered free climbing. It is almost a wheelchair-accessible approach.
    By Andrew Shoemaker
    From: Olympia, WA
    Jun 2, 2011
    rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Didn't really like this route. The moves were really awkward and the clipping stances were a bit sketchy with my short stature. There are a lot better routes than this at Bowling Alley. This was much harder for me than Shady Deal was (which I onsighted).
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Mar 13, 2014
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    I think this is a little harder than it is rated in the D'Antonio guidebook. Not much harder, but I would say 11c rather than 11a/b.
    By Ken Cangi
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Oct 31, 2014
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    This route, imo, is more deserving of 3 stars than 2. The movement is very good.

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