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Lower Right Side
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Father Figure 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Greg Hand, Kent Lugbill and Ray Snead, July 2003.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,453
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jun 15, 2003

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Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>


On the far rightside of the Bowling Alley almost near the road is a cluster of four routes near a large ponderosa tree. This route climbs the blunt-arete on fairly good holds past several bolts. Clip the first bolt (black hanger) and step up and left to the second bolt. Tend right back towards the arete to a testy moves past the third and fourth bolts. Reach a good flake and make a strenuous move over a small bulge and reach a good rest. Head up and right to a good ledge and power up past the last two bolts to the anchor. Good climb!


Eight bolts with get you to a two-bolt anchor.

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By Scott Conner
From: Lyons, CO
Jun 17, 2003

...and it took all four of them to put this one climb up! :-)
By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Jun 17, 2003

Actually it is probably close to 125 years! We began in the era when the "shoulder stand" was considered free climbing. It is almost a wheelchair-accessible approach.
By Andrew Shoemaker
From: Olympia, WA
Jun 2, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Didn't really like this route. The moves were really awkward and the clipping stances were a bit sketchy with my short stature. There are a lot better routes than this at Bowling Alley. This was much harder for me than Shady Deal was (which I onsighted).
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Mar 13, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I think this is a little harder than it is rated in the D'Antonio guidebook. Not much harder, but I would say 11c rather than 11a/b.
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Oct 31, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This route, imo, is more deserving of 3 stars than 2. The movement is very good, and several of the holds, which keep this pitch at the lower end of 5.11, are hard to see. Much harder to onsight than redpoint.

The only reachy clip for me at 6' tall is #4 which isn't reachy at all if you climb onto the smaller holds out right to clip it. The route wanders among hidden holds, so stay relaxed, look around, and know that there is always a good hold where you need it. The final headwall above the upper ledge is a nice bonus.