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Unsorted Routes:

Father 1 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jack Sprat
Page Views: 2,216
Submitted By: Aeon Aki on Jun 10, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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The "narrow" crack in the middle is Fath...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Just right of Mother #1 is a splitter hand crack that fades into a seemingly perfect, finger crack before ending completely at a horizontal seam. Scramble to the base of the hand crack and enjoy 35 feet of sinker hand jams before arriving at the "finger crack." Notice now that this is not a finger crack at all but instead is a flared seam that will only accept the smallest wires on your rack. Place a piece, or two or three, then climb a scary and technical sequence on pebbles and crystals. Plug your thank-God piece in at the horizontal break then traverse left along the break and link into the top of Mother #1. A beautiful line and well worth the time if your RPs made it into the pack with all those #5s.

Protection 

RPs to #3 Camalot. Not sure that this one deserves a safety rating, but be prepared to pull the crux above the smallest gear you brought.


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By slim
Administrator
Jun 10, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Great route for sure. Gear is good if you broght the right stuff, but be prepared to tinker.
By Ryan Arnold
Jun 25, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

This can be a dangerous lead if, like me, you don't bring enough small cams. Purple Metolius and smaller are key for the final seam. There were far fewer spots for brassies than I was hoping for. Also, the last horizontal is not the hand crack I was expecting; have small finger-sized cams and some slings so you can make that (easy?) traverse safely.

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