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Severity Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Fata Morgana T 
Huggin' The Hardpan T 
Severity Disparity T,S 
Severity Disparity Direct S 
Without Despair T 

Fata Morgana 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 260', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: James and Franziska Garrett
Page Views: 55
Submitted By: Sam Cannon on Mar 25, 2016

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Description 

Yet another stellar line from JG.

This route is the furthest to climber's right looking up at the buttress and ascends a series of bulges and fun corners. Route starts to the left of the recessed, vertical strip of chalky-white rock (which itself is just left of the cleft).

Solid 5.8 climbing on each pitch with good pro and supplementary bolts. Crux of each pitch seemed to be pulling bulges, which were very fun and thoughtful for the grade.

We descended from the third anchors to the right facing the hardpan. A 70m was required, though if you brought webbing and a biner you could make use of a bolted anchor that is currently (March 25, 2016) bereft of chains/cord and make it down with a 60.

Location 

Far right side of Severity Butress.

Protection 

Single rack from small micros to #3 camalot, slings.


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