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Fat Man's Folly 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tom Howard, Nick Brash, Bill Newman 1981
Page Views: 588
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 18, 2007

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Description 

Climb the corner to reach a short section of chimney. Grunt through the wide section to reach a nice hand crack. Follow crack until you reach a roof. At this point, follow a left leaning hand crack for 15 ft and then straight up to the finish. The diagonal crack is outstanding! Don't be turned off by the chimney section, it's not that bad and the gear is good.

Location 

Start about 15-20 ft. to the left of the start of Chasin' the wind(standard start) below a small section of chimney.

Protection 

Mostly larger gear. A #4 camalot is helpful for the chimney section. Several hands to wide-hands size pieces are helpful for the rest.


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By K Baumgartner
May 30, 2016

This is a phenomenal line that has four distinct phases: corner to roof traverse; chimney, money hand jams, top-out-traverse. The view from atop is amazing.

I felt like a fatty with my gear squeezing through the chimney (Mama's Squeeze Box is a good warm-up) and seemed like the crux.

Decided to walk over to the M. Squeeze Box anchors b/c the smallish tree that serves as the rap station was a bit too wobbly for me. Friends rapped the next day and thought it was fine.

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