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Fat Lip 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Bingham, Tedd Thompson
Page Views: 3,888
Submitted By: Louis Arevalo on Jun 6, 2005

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Fat Lip


This route is located 20 feet to the left of Terror of Tiny Town. It is the bolted line that leads up and through a roof. It begins with a thin seam crack which deposits you on to a small ledge. Traverse the catwalk to the right for 10 feet clipping 2 bolts along the way to a small left facing dihedral with bolts on the outside. Cruise up the corner and head slightly right through some big flakes. As the flake peters out edge right and find stances in the folds of granite. from under the roof clip the bolt at the lip and get ready to pull extremely HARD up and over onto exciting holds to the chains. Wow!


All bolts. Possibly small nuts and tcu's for the beginning and between bolts 5 and 6 if you are not feeling up to it.

Photos of Fat Lip Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fat Lip .12a
Fat Lip .12a
Rock Climbing Photo: Louis scratching for luck on Fat Lip.  Photo by St...
Louis scratching for luck on Fat Lip. Photo by St...

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By Dave Budge
From: South Slope of the Hindu Kush
Oct 18, 2005

One of the funnest routes in the City. Get ready for that last bouldery move at the finish. Take your time. If you cruise the lower section then you've got the technique to do the top problem without having to pull super hard. You can check out the move and retreat back down to the rest. Awesome.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Jun 25, 2009

Ridicuously hard to clip the last bolt for me (5'8") before entering the crux.
By Bad Sock Puppet
Sep 13, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

A must do City sport climb! Start in a tiny seam on two small finger locks until you can reach the jugs. Throw some long runners in at the ledge traverse and fly up the crack. As soon as the crack runs out you're on bomber jugs and crimps until you get high and right. Your feet will run out and you'll have to make two back-to-back tricky transitions between awesome flakes. These moves alone give it four stars. The crux is obviously pulling the roof, but it actually would be really easy if you weren't already pumped. Clip the bolt at the roof before going over. The trick is to get high feet over the roof, and there you have it. So fun!!!
By dave bingham
Jun 20, 2011

..clipping the last bolt at the roof - a critical toe hook makes this a breeze as I recall. Otherwise -suffer!
By James Yates
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 17, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

I did Gemini on Saturday and Fat Lip on Sunday, and Fat Lip felt much harder than Gemini, perhaps a letter grade harder. I felt like the flake transitions toward the top were not trivial and the rest below the roof was marginal. The crux is definitely pulling the roof on decent crimps, but the moves are very big and the feet are way under the roof. Clipping the bolt at the roof and pulling the crux moves are definitely height-dependent. This climb is very good and is really on you for the last 30 ft. A pretty stout 12a, IMHO.
By peachy spohn
Jun 25, 2013

Super de Duper! Great moves on great rock. One of the best .12s I did here. You should clip the first two with long slings and then skip the first on the arete/face, or just back clean the first on the traverse to reduce the drag. But there really wasn't a problem using long slings.
By Ian Cavanaugh
Sep 17, 2013

The First Ascent was done by Dave Bingham and Tedd Thompson
By Ales Kobrle
From: San Jose
Jul 8, 2017
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Really nice 11c/d climb up to last bolt. Then sequencing crimpy finish crux through roof.
On the lip of the roof was nice positive hold for left hand, which broke under me when I was standing on it. Now it feels like 12b/c, because it was a key hold and foot for me to pass the roof for the first time. After that it took me some time to find a different sequence which is way harder.

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