|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Todd Gordon, Cyndie Brandsford, Tony Sartin & Ann Rodgers, January 1994|
|Submitted By:||Bob Gaines on Jan 1, 2006|
|Comments on Fat Free||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Rancho Mirage, CA
Jan 23, 2006
|I would call it a soft 10a. Could be a grade harder when it cleans up. Beware of the loose flakes along the left side of the route. I did not notice the fixed pin.|
From: San Diego
Apr 12, 2009
|Its really a 5.9+ fun route but the loose stuff is still there at the first section of the climb.|
By Lluis Penalver-Aguila
From: Cambridge, Massachusetts
Oct 12, 2009
|This climb's got all the variety one can look for: thin face moves, a bit of crack climbing up the seams, layback off a thin and loose flake on the left between bolts 2&3, and some power moves to the top. Didn't see any fixed pin, and bolts 2&3 look pretty weathered. Probably a 5.9+ but consider it a 10a between bolts 2 and 3. There's a new sling at the top for anyone to TR this one (couldn't get a the sling out after 15 mins of tugging at it). Pro to 2" near the top. What a blast!|
By Bob Gaines
Jan 8, 2010
Kevin Powell and I replaced the four old 1/4 inch bolts today. The pin is long gone, but not critical.
Removed the "sling" at the top which was about 40 feet of 1 inch webbing threaded through a pinch behind a loose block. One of the diciest rappel "anchors" I've ever seen.
By David S.
From: San Francisco, CA
Dec 22, 2016
|This would be a really great climb if it saw more traffic and cleaned up the loose, grainy flakes. Nice, varied movement up the whole face, with good spots for pro interspersed between the 2nd to 4th bolts. A tad hairy to the first bolt.|