REI Community
Great Burrito
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Desperado T 
Fat Free T 
Kemosabe and Tonto T 
Learn Quick or Die T 
Non-Decumbent Destiny T 
Out, Out, Brief Candle T 
Scamp T 
Stood Up T 
Three Burner Stove T 
Tonto and the Great White Leader T 
Vanderklooster's Stinky Wet Kitty T 

Fat Free 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Cyndie Brandsford, Tony Sartin & Ann Rodgers, January 1994
Page Views: 143
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Jan 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
the bad and the ugly


This route is on the far right side of the main wall (about 50 feet right of Learn Quick Or Die) and follows thin vertical seams interspersed with face moves past 4 bolts and one fixed pin. The rock is a bit loose in sections, but it is one of the best routes on the cliff.


4 bolts, thin to 3 inches

Comments on Fat Free Add Comment
Show which comments
By Duke
From: Rancho Mirage, CA
Jan 23, 2006

I would call it a soft 10a. Could be a grade harder when it cleans up. Beware of the loose flakes along the left side of the route. I did not notice the fixed pin.
By amax
From: San Diego
Apr 12, 2009

Its really a 5.9+ fun route but the loose stuff is still there at the first section of the climb.
By Lluis Penalver-Aguila
From: Cambridge, Massachusetts
Oct 12, 2009

This climb's got all the variety one can look for: thin face moves, a bit of crack climbing up the seams, layback off a thin and loose flake on the left between bolts 2&3, and some power moves to the top. Didn't see any fixed pin, and bolts 2&3 look pretty weathered. Probably a 5.9+ but consider it a 10a between bolts 2 and 3. There's a new sling at the top for anyone to TR this one (couldn't get a the sling out after 15 mins of tugging at it). Pro to 2" near the top. What a blast!
By Bob Gaines
Jan 8, 2010

Kevin Powell and I replaced the four old 1/4 inch bolts today. The pin is long gone, but not critical.

Removed the "sling" at the top which was about 40 feet of 1 inch webbing threaded through a pinch behind a loose block. One of the diciest rappel "anchors" I've ever seen.
By David S.
From: San Francisco, CA
Dec 22, 2016

This would be a really great climb if it saw more traffic and cleaned up the loose, grainy flakes. Nice, varied movement up the whole face, with good spots for pro interspersed between the 2nd to 4th bolts. A tad hairy to the first bolt.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About