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South Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
B-52 T 
Bamboozled T 
Bat's Ass T 
Bloody Crack T 
Catch Me Now I'm Falling T 
Chaos Out of Control T 
Dinkus Dog T 
Enigma, The T 
Fat Dog T 
First Return T 
Gemini Crack T 
Good Intentions T 
Left Up T 
Legacy, The T 
Lichen or Not T 
Mettle Detector T 
Parachute Woman T 
Rat's Ass T 
Right Up T 
Second Coming T 
Sentry Box Ledge Direct TR 
Short Man's Sorrow T 
Slug, The T 
Southender T 
Unfinished Concerto T 
Windwalker T 
Zodiac T 
Unsorted Routes:

Fat Dog 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 325'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 3,487
Submitted By: gneiss pirate on Oct 27, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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A very wide crack for LG

Description 

A great route that can be done in 2 long pitches. Climb the 1st pitch crack to its end using jams, stems and lay-a-ways, step right and belay on a nice ledge. Natural belay, 200 ft pitch. 5.7

2nd pitch has 2 options.

1st- Move right and finish on the Unfinished Concerto crack.

2nd- (better option)
From the belay move up and left aiming for a notch. Pull the notch and face climb aiming for a couple of slung hemlock trees at 130 ft. 5.7

Rap straight down Chaos out of Control. Double rope rap.

Location 

Obvious wide crack left of Unfinished Concerto

Protection 

Nuts, double cams to 3 inch(optional 4-6 inch piece), many runners


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By nbrown
From: western NC
Jan 27, 2012

I usually like a good grovel but this route was lacking in that department -- too many good holds.
By Russ Keane
Oct 2, 2016

This route is awesome. Not a typical east coast climb. The wide crack felt more like a chimney. It was a really fun lead: Secure, interesting, and perfectly challenging for the 5.7 grade. Even the 2nd pitch is good! Not a throw-away 5.5 like some other climbs on the southside. Only problem is topping out and finding your way to the (or a) rappel.
By Benandstuff
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Oct 2, 2016

This is a really fun route. There is a variety of movement all over it. Stays shaded in the morning- a great plus for the South Side.

The optional notch pull for the second pitch felt more like a hard 5.8 move, plus the climbing right off the belay ledge has little to no protection going left. Definitely spicier than the rest of the climb.